Smell the Rainbow!

I love the smell of Fruit Loops cereal. I mean love it! Bitter Creek has a scent that is every bit as good, in fact people often smell the candle and give me a shocked look like..."How did you do that?!". It's one of those moments that make me love what I do more and more! Since we are fast approaching the spring show season I thought I should do the blog on these amazing fruit scented candles! I can't think of anywhere these wouldn't sell like hotcakes and believe it or not, are actually quite simple to make! I sell mine in my market for $24.00 each with absolutely no problem...which makes them also quite profitable to make!

To start you will need to have the following:
IGI 6006
18 oz Apothecary Jar
Your choice of Lid
Fruity Loops Fragrance Oil
Red Dye
Orange Dye
Yellow Dye
Green Dye
Blue Dye
Purple Dye


Begin by weighing out your melted wax. To the top like I've poured, this jar holds 16.5 weight oz of the IGI 6006. Keep in mind different waxes have different densities so figure out what your jar holds before you make one of these. Since I know mine hold exactly 16 weight oz, what I do is weigh out the wax, add the fragrance at 1 oz. and then set it aside. I then use a digital scale and divide the scented wax evenly between 7 Pour Pots. So at this point you should have exactly 17.5 weight oz of scented wax. Divided by 7 = 2.5 weight oz per pot. At this point, I like to color each of them to my desired shade. For these I used the Shades Liquid Dyes.

The first color will be the darkest, in this case Purple. Again, this is 2.5 weight oz of the scent/wax mix. Allow this to set up fully so that it is solid before pouring the next layer.Pour this layer as normal at 175*.

The second color will be the blue. Keep it rainbow colored! Again, be sure the previous layer is fully set before pouring the next. You don't want your colors to run! Pour this and remaining layers at 170*.

Next Will be the yellow. BE SURE the green is set up before you pour this layer or your yellow will become green. This is true for every layer but it is especially important with the yellow layer.

Now comes the orange. Again making sure that your last layer is set, now pour this one. Be sure now to keep your wicks centered in the jar with each layer. This is very important!

This layer will be your final layer before the last pour. After this layer I recommend allowing the candle to cool for about 4-5 hours before doing the final pour to allow for any sinking that may occur.

This is the final layer. Be sure that this layer is poured after allowing it time to fully cool. Pour this layer at 175 to be sure it adheres to the layer below it. This will be the final layer and will top off the rainbow! :)









Enjoy your beautiful layered candle! It has never been easier to make a more beautiful fruity candle for spring and summer that is sure to be the hit of all your shows! 

Adding Additives!

I get a lot of questions about additives. The one I am asked most is: What additive will make my candles smell stronger. The answer is None. There isn't anything you can add to your candles to make them stronger. The best candles come from a combination of the right wax (and additives if you are using a straight paraffin instead of a blended wax) the right wick (because scent throw comes from the melted wax) and of course testing to find the scents that do best in your wax and wick combination (not all scents do equally well in every wax).

With that in mind, there are a lot of additives that we offer and there is still a lot of confusion as to how many are used. Hopefully this will clear some of that confusion and even get you considering testing making your own wax blend! It is a lot of fun to create something all your own and of course it is something that you have complete control over. 

Scent binders: Bitter Creek offers a few different binding agents for your wax.
Vybar 103 which is designed for waxes with a melt point 136* f. and above and Vybar 260 for waxes with melt points 135* f. and below. What does Vybar do and what do you use it in? Vybar is a scent binding agent that when used in a straight paraffin wax will significantly increase the amount of scent the wax can hold. Most straight paraffin waxes will hold no more than about 2-3% fragrance before they are blended with an additive like this. With the addition of Vybar it is entirely possible to use at least 1 weight ounce of scent per pound of wax (6%) and in some cases up to 1.5 weight ounces to the pound by weight (9%). Vybar will also stop a wax from mottling and aid in helping a wax have a smooth, creamy appearance. Mottle is the interior crystal structure that some straight paraffin waxes will give. Some people like this and opt not to use Vybar for that reason.

When Vybar isn't the right additive and mottle is a desired effect you can choose an additive like Mottle Max. Mottle Max will in most cases not diminish mottle when used at 1/2 tsp to 1.5 tsp per lb of wax. .5-1% total. The use of Mottle Max will allow for even a mottle candle to hold between 6-9% fragrance, something that prior to it's introduction, wasn't possible. These three additives are for use in straight paraffin waxes. The will have no affect on soy. Vybar will also not increase scent throw contrary to popular myth and in fact can decrease by locking up the scent if too much is added as is the case when using it in waxes that already contain it such as a blended paraffin or reduced pour paraffin.
Vybar 103 & Vybar 206 are available at Bitter Creek South
Vybar 103, Vybar 260 and Mottle Max are available At Bitter Creek North

Color Protectors:

Bitter Creek North and South offer the same product for this and quite frankly: It's awesome! UV Color Stabilizer is easy to use It not only helps inhibit fading from light, but it also helps improve the stability of the candles color from UV exposure but it also protects it from the effects of heat and fragrance solvents! Some scents will change the color in time. For example Blueberry Muffins with Blue Liquid Dye used to turn green in time. With this product it will not. It will stay it's original vibrant blue.

The energy from light and heat affects and destroys the chromo-phores of color molecules. Light and heat also cause free radicals to form in the wax blend. Organic solvents and particularly the additives used in fragrances augment the destructive effect of light and heat. This unique system of stabilizing agents increases the stability of the candle components by absorbing light energy as well as by inhibiting the formation of free radicals. I strongly recommend the use of this product in all wax types if you are selling your product to protect the colors for the life of the candle! It's well worth the investment!
UV Color Stabilizer is available at Bitter Creek North
UV Color Stabilizer is also available for purchase at Bitter Creek South.

Wax Hardeners: Both locations carry Steric Acid,the most common hardener for all types of waxes. This is a natural palm based product. We carry triple pressed vegetable steric. Triple Pressed Vegetable Steric is commonly used in paraffin and vegetable wax candles for hardness and opacity. It is normally used in pillar/molded candles at approx. 3 tbs per pound. Typical usage rates are around 1-3%. Keep in mind that you don't usually want to add steric acid in a container candle since it will inhibit the softness and meltability of the wax. In a container those are properties that are desired. In a pillar where hardness or a shell is desired this will allow you to accomplish this with little to no effort with the proper size wick. Steric Acid is also common in taper candles and used with beeswax produces a dripless candle.
Steric Acid is available at Bitter Creek North
Steric Acid is available at Bitter Creek South

Most waxes will not require much more than the basic UV additive including soy and palm. There are other additives out there like Mold Release Powder and Mold Release Spray that are carried at Bitter Creek North that are excellent for use when making molded candles. They can be used with any wax type. Petrolatum (Vaseline) or Mineral Oil can be added to straight paraffin waxes to soften the melt and Mineral Oil is also often used in straight paraffin wax to help increase mottling (remember this can also reduce the fragrance load the wax is capable of). Soy can be added to paraffin to increase burn times and decrease sooting. Many people blend 50/50 Ez Soy and a Blend like the 4636. It is the best of both worlds! A creamy pretty paraffin candle with the benefits of soy! I personally have made a soy that was half IGI 1343 and half Crisco. It burned beautifully! The candle was actually quite hard, as the 1343 is quite hard and has a higher melt point. Crisco is a partially hydrogenated soybean oil.

Sky is the limit with additives and making your own blends. Now is the time to stock up and start testing in the new year!  If you have any questions about how an additive may improve your performance or how it may alter the current state of your candle, please let us know! Our Tech Support department is here to answer your questions!

It is that time of year again! Please note that no PayPal or money orders will be taken after December 14th due to year end inventory.

PayPal E-checks take 5 to 7 business days to clear, so please remember this will delay your order significantly. Do not choose this option if you need rush shipping!

Bitter Creek North and South will be closed December 24 - January 2nd for Christmas and year-end inventory. Normal business hours will resume on January 3rd. Please note, all orders placed during this time will not be processed until January 3rd.

Holiday Stress Relief!

Every year I say I am going to start my holiday shopping early. Every year. Although my intentions are good, between Thanksgiving day and New Years Day, my stress level usually rises from my normal 2 to a constant 10! Maybe it's that my job is busiest this time of year, maybe it's my business being at it's peak, maybe it's the person who just about ran me over in the Target parking and to top it all off, the social demands of the season. Yep, you got it! I am EXHAUSTED every night when I pour myself into bed and my body feels the stress of it all!

Although I certainly don't know the answers even how to prevent the stress of the season, but one thing I DO know is your sense of smell can play a huge role in stress relief! That's right...smelling things can cause a alter your stress level!

I have come up with some amazing ways to use our scents to melt away the stresses of the season!

A hot bath with some amazing bath salts, cold process soap to wash away the stress and lotions and body sprays so your body, mind and soul thank you!  A Clamshell Melt or a candle! The sense of smell is so powerful that you can literally change your outlook!

I loved this soap so much when I made it, that I thought, what would make it even more relaxing? The colors! Cool shades of blues and greens with white.....That just soothes me right there!  For this project you will need the following:

Cold Process Soap Mold
Olive Oil
Palm Oil
Coconut Oil
Lye
Ultramarine Blue Gel Tone
Neon Green Gel Tone
Titanium Dioxide
Bubbles & Lights Eucalyptus Spearmint Type

Following the instructions for Cold Process Soap and Safety Rules mix your lye as you normally would or mix equal parts lye and water by weight. Cool to room temperature.

Mix together 1 pound each of the three oils and then divide them into three separate containers for mixing. Add about 1 tsp each of the three colors into each pot that have been diluted in about a tbsp of warm water. This will help prevent the colors from speckling and more evenly distribute them. Add 1 oz of scent to each container of oil.

Prepare your mold. I use wax paper to line mine, others use freezer paper, parchment paper, and some even use plastic bags. Whatever works for you. :)

Mix each of the colors and pour into the mold, allow the layer to set up a bit before pouring the next layer

This is a photo of each of the layers being poured. The layer below it is solid enough to support a new layer being poured on top of it. This will allow for nice, even layers in your finished soap.

This is a photo of it cut. This is an easy soap with lots of amazing potential. Match with candles, lotions, body spray, room spray, hand sanitizer and more! The possibilities are endless! Make gift baskets with the matching products for your next show!









I've compiled a list of aroma's that work well and have a relaxing effect. Spring is a great time to introduce your customers to new products & ideas!
Basil Sage Mint, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Clove, Eucalyptus, Eucalyptus Spearmint, Frankincense and Myrrh, Grapefruit, Lavender, Lemon, Orange, Peppermint, Rosemary Mint, Sage & Citrus, Sandalwood Vanilla and Ylang Ylang!
Give a line of Relaxation scents a try this year!
  

Givinging Thanks & Giving Back

In the grand scheme of things it's easy to forget how lucky we are or worse yet, that others...often people we know, neighbors, friends, relatives don't have it so great. Times are tough.

For every 1 in 6 people in the United States, hunger is a reality. It can happen in poor neighborhoods and middle class alike. Poverty and financial hardships are reality in every sector right now for people who cannot afford to make ends meet. These people are very often hard working adults, senior citizens who live on fixed income without enough means to get by and of course children. In the land of plenty, America, no one should ever be forced to go without food for several meals let alone several days but it happens!

Thanksgiving time is a good time to reflect on not the things we want but instead to be thankful for all we DO have. This year I tried thinking of all the ways to help and came up with some unique ways to incorporate this idea into my business. This project is unique in the sense that it all focuses around food and ways we can all help! Food shelves across America have an incredible need this year.  For this months project, I am focusing on hunger. Probably not the easiest thing to hear but its real and we can help and here is a unique way to make that happen!

This finished project is perfect to make and sell at Craft shows, on your website etc. with the profits going to a Food Bank or Soup Kitchen in your local area. They are made from partially recycled materials (the can) and from a food grade soy wax, Ez Soy. The impact just a few dollars can make is high. Pay it forward!

To find a food bank near you: http://feedingamerica.org/foodbank-results.asp

What you will need:
Empty Veggie and Fruit Cans (*With the lids taken off using openers that do not leave sharp edges!)
Ez Soy Wax (On sale this month at BCS!)
Fragrance (I chose Strawberry Jam but really any fruit or food scent would work well for this)
Dye if desired (I used Red Dye #1 Color Block)
CD wicks (For a 2.5" diameter a CD 12 for a 3" a CD 18 etc. If you need help with wicking, just ask me!)Wick Stickums
Labels (I used the Kraft Brown Print your own labels from BCN!)
Warning Labels

To make your candles:
Heat EZ Soy™ to 175-180*. Add your dye and blend well, then add your fragrance and blend well. Allow the wax to cool to about 105* and start stirring. When the wax reaches a slushy stage, it looks similar to an Icee starting to warm up, pour the wax into room temperature jars. The actual pour temp of the wax is about 95* but because it is not completely fluid at this point, an internal temp is hard to achieve. Pouring hotter will result in more frosting and tops that are not completely smooth.

We recommend using chip, block, powder or flake dyes with soy waxes. Liquid dyes can cause excessive frosting due to the solvents in them. If your tops are not smooth, try pouring a touch cooler. If they are lumpy try a bit warmer. It does take some trial and error testing to determine the exact right pour temp for you.

We hope all of our customers and friends have a wonderful Thanksgiving this year! Just a reminder that Bitter Creek and Bitter Creek South we will be closed November 22 & 23 in observation of Thanksgiving.

Pringles Can Soap

What's not to love about the idea of making soap in a Pringles Can? First you get to EAT the delicious chips (I have a thing for the Sour Cream and Onion!) Second, you are re-purposing the can as a mold! And third, there simply isn't much better than the amazing feel of Cold Process Soap! I love this project! If you aren't ready to make CP soap try this for Melt and Pour instead!




Pringles Can Soap Supplies:

Empty Pringles Can (better get to eating!)
Olive Oil
Palm Oil
Coconut Oil
Ultramarine Violet Gel Tone
Ultramarine Blue Gel Tone
Bright Red Gel Tone
Fruity Loops Fragrance
Lye

For this project I used a 50/50 lye and water solution room temp and room temp oils. I do NOT use a stick blender but instead a stainless steel wire whisk when mixing smaller amounts of soap as in the past I've found it mixes too fast and tends to seize on me.

The colors in the soap would have been more vibrant had I gelled the soap. If you plan to gel I would recommend soaping with a lye solution and oils at about 110* each. Be sure to wrap the soap tube in towels to hold in the heat as well.

Get your soaping supplies assembled.

Make sure to wipe out the Pringles Can.

Place liquid dyes in a bit of warm water. This will "melt" or "dissolve" any particles that would otherwise make a speckled soap. I strongly recommend this when using Gel Tone colorants.
Ultramarine Violet Gel Tone
Ultramarine Blue Gel Tone
Bright Red Gel Tone

Add your oils to a non aluminum pot and then add the lye solution and fragrance oil. Stir well using the wire whisk. The pot I use is a HDPE plastic Batter Bowl my mom had from the 1970's! It works excellent for up to 3 lbs oils using a 50/50 lye solution and the best part, it has a pour spout!

Mix your dyes in with some of the raw soap from above. Do this with the red also, mix the violet into your remaining soap in the mixing pot.

Pour the colored soap into the pot using a circling motion around the pot. This will ensure it swirls throughout as it is poured into the mold.

This is what the top of the can looks like when it is full of raw soap. Cap the soap and cover with bath towels to keep it warm if you are planning to gel the soap.

Once the soap is solid and ready to be taken out of the can, peel it away to remove the soap. This may take a bit of work at the beginning but once it starts, it peels easily away.










And there you are, Pringles Can Soap. The actual recipe I used for this is as follows:

Fat	Amount (oz wt)	% in recipe
Coconut Oil	10.6666666667	33.33
Olive Oil	10.6666666667	33.33
Palm Oil	10.6666666667	33.33
Total Weight	32.0000000001

The lye amount is: 4.6 weight oz in 4.6 weight oz of water

Please be sure to follow standard safety when making Cold Process Soap. There is a lot of information on making soap on our website. Here is the link to our blog on that: http://bittercreekcandle.blogspot.com/2011/10/how-to-make-basic-cp-soap.html

Please be careful when making soap!

Harvest Blessings!

Harvest Blessings!

It's fall. I love the scents of the season! Leaves turning, the air cooling and of course warm, spicy scented candles! Mmmmm! I seriously wait all year for this so my cinnamon and exotic spices can come out again!

This month, Bitter Creek South's Newsletter has Holiday scents on sale! I decided to use one of my favorites for an adorable candle to sell at craft shows or give as gifts this year!




A Holiday Wassail Scented Candle is this months project!

You will need:

• Clear Glass Mug (Mine came from Wal-Mart)

• Your Choice of wax and wick sized for the diameter of the mug.
  Mine was made from IGI 6006 with a CD 20 wick and orange & coffee liquid dye
  (Need help deciding which wax and wick? We offer LIVE help 9-5 Monday Thru Friday)

• Homespun or Raffia

• Air Freshener Blank

• Dried Spices (I used ground cloves)

• Holiday Wassail Fragrance

Make your candle in the mug per the instructions using Holiday Wassail fragrance.

While that is cooling, take your air freshener blank and rub it down with dried ground spices. I like clove for this project.

Once the candle has cooled, attach the air freshener blank to the front using the raffia or homespun bow.

And here is the finished project! A mug of sweet and spicy Holiday Wassail!

This is a simple project that gives a new and adorable use to the Air Freshener Blanks and gives a fresh spin on a timeless classic!

IGI 6006 Container Candle

Recently I polled people on their favorite container wax on our message board. The two that come out on top are the Ez Soy and the IGI 6006. I use both waxes and honestly love them both! I recently did a blog using our Ez Soy so decided that with the holiday season fast approaching a blog on a basic container candle using the IGI 6006 was a great idea. Many of our customers are not actually candlemakers at all and hopefully this will entice them into giving candle making a try!




To get started you will need the following:
12 oz Apothecary Jars and the lid of your choice (The jars and lids are sold separately)
Wick Stickum
CD 10 wicks (For most scents. It is up to you to test to determine actual size)
Warning Labels
Candle Dye (all of the candle dyes we sell except pigments are compatible with this wax)
IGI 6006 Wax

Begin by melting your wax to 180-195*. While your wax is melting heat your jars in the oven. Heat for 20 minutes on the lowest oven setting in a pre-heated oven.

Wick your heated jars. Take the Wick Stickums and attach them to the wicks and insert them in the jars. (be careful the jars are HOT!) The wicks should be placed so they are in the center of the container with the wicks nearly touching. In the end the wicks should be about an inch apart in the center of the jar. Our Ez Wick Setter Multi will make this MUCH easier!

For three candles you will need 32 weight ounces of IGI 6006. Once the wax is to temp, weigh out 2 ounces of fragrance and add your desired dye type, color and amount to the wax and stir well to incorporate. Once the dye is blended properly, add your fragrance and again, stir well.

Bring your wax temp down to about 165-170 and pour into the heated jars. This will help minimize shrinking and prevent skip lines and wet spots in the finished candle. Cool the candles as slow as possible taking care to be sure the wicks stay centered in the candle as it cools.

Your finished candles should look like this. Sometimes this wax will require a "second pour" or "top off", to do this re-heat the wax you had left from your first pour. Heat it to 10* hotter than you did the first pour and pour over the candles to the original pour line.

At this time trim your wicks to 1/4" maximum and adhere your warning label to the bottom of the jar and attach any other labels you would like such as your company logo etc. and place the jars lid on top.





Container candles should be burned for about four hours at a time. Doing so ensures that the candles will burn properly from beginning to end. These are great Christmas gifts for your family, friends and teachers! Be creative! Different adornments on the jars such as homespun ties, raffia, candle charms etc all give a different look unique to you!

To see a list of some of our most popular Christmas Scent ideas click Here:

Dead Sea Salts!

This month the Bitter Creek South Newsletter has an awesome sale on bath salts! With the cooler fall and winter weather just around the corner, many people take advantage and soak in a hot bathtub more often.

Taking a hot bath can be quite therapeutic in itself but did you know there are many more reasons for a bath than just the long soak? Using Dead Sea Salts in your bath (which are LOADED with minerals that are actually beneficial to your health) turn a good bath into an amazing experience that is good for the Body, Mind and Soul! Do you have Psoriasis? Eczema? Acne? How about Arthritis, Sports Injuries or plain sore tired muscles? If you answered yes to any of these, Dead Sea Salts may be your answer!

Situated between Israel and Jordan is the Dead Sea, a wonder that has healed, cured, and inspired people for thousands of years. The climate in this area is warm, sunny and dry year-round. The air is clean, pure, and free of the pollution that is found elsewhere in the world. The water is filled with minerals that are known to soothe tired muscles, decrease inflammation and promote healing. The Dead Sea acts as a cure for many common health ailments. The problem? It's not convenient for most people to pack their bags and take a dip in the soothing waters of the Dead Sea. The solution? Bringing the Dead Sea home to you!

Dead Sea salts have been reported to have the following benefits:
Rheumatologic Conditions – Dead Sea salts can be effective in balneotherapy (from Latin: balneum, "bath" is the treatment of disease by bathing, usually practiced at spas. While it is considered distinct from hydrotherapy, there are some overlaps in practice and in underlying principles. Balneotherapy may involve hot or cold water, massage through moving water, relaxation or stimulation. Many mineral waters at spas are rich in particular minerals (silica, sulfur, selenium, radium) which can be absorbed through the skin. Medicinal clays are also widely used, which practice is known as 'fangotherapy'.) of Rheumatoid Arthritis, Psoriatic Arthritis, and Osteoarthritis. The minerals are absorbed while soaking, stimulating blood circulation.
Common Skin Ailments – Research has demonstrated that skin disorders such as acne and psoriasis are relieved by regular soaking in water with added Dead Sea salt. The National Psoriasis Foundation recommends Dead Sea and Dead Sea salts as effective treatments for psoriasis. One study concluded that the high concentration of magnesium in Dead Sea salt was instrumental in improving skin hydration and reducing inflammation.
Allergies - The high concentration of bromide and magnesium in the Dead Sea salt can relieve allergic reactions by cleansing and detoxifying.
Skin Aging – Further research into Dead Sea salt benefits has shown a 40% reduction in the depth of wrinkling.

Making Bath Salts is a simple process. You will need the following for this project:
1 lb Dead Sea Salts
Blue FD&C Liquid Dye
Green FD&C Liquid Dye
Gulf Tides Fragrance Oil
Mason Jar and Lid

First, weigh out three containers of Dead Sea Salts each holding an equal amount from the 16 oz. These weigh 5.3 oz each.

Secondly pour one of the containers into a sandwich size Zip-Loc Baggie and add 4 drops of the Green FD&C Liquid Dye and 1/4 tsp Gulf Tides Fragrance Oil.

^{Knead the salts in the baggie until they are fully blended and look like this.}

^{Now pour another one of the containers into a sandwich size Zip-Loc Baggie and add 2 drops of the Blue FD&C Liquid Dye and 1/4 tsp Gulf Tides Fragrance Oil.}










Knead the salts in the baggie until they are fully blended and look like this.

Finally, pour the last of the containers into a sandwich size Zip-Loc Baggie and add 1/4 tsp Gulf Tides Fragrance Oil and knead to incorporate.

Last, pour each of the three baggies into a Pint Size Mason Jar alternating colors until you have the look you want to achieve. This is a simple project that has complex benefits for your health! 

To use Dead Sea Salts in your bath, add 1/4-1/2 Cup into hot running water depending on the size of your tub. Enjoy!

A is for Apple.

A is For AppleThere are so many awesome things on sale this month at Bitter Creek I had a hard time choosing what to write about! Since the wax, aluminum molds and Wick Your Wax fo's and Apple Scents are all on sale in September I started thinking a warm smelling fall candle was in order (besides my house needs fall decorating too!). I decided to in the end make a 3" x 4" Drizzled Candle using the Wick Your Wax Mulled Cider. I can't wait to burn it! 





For this candle you will need the following:

• 1 pound of paraffin pillar wax. (I made mine from IGI 1343 with 3 tbsp of wax Steric Acid) 
• 1/2 weight oz of Wick Your Wax Mulled Cider
• 2/0 Square Braid Cotton Wick
• Burgandy Shades Liquid Candle Dye
• Brown Shades Liquid Candle Dye
• 3" x 4.5" Seamless Aluminum Mold
• Pillar Wick Pin
• Mold Sealer Putty

Pour your base candle following these instructions:

Place the Wick Pin inside your Pillar Mold and seal the bottom using a piece of mold sealer putty so the wax cannot leak out.


 

Heat wax and Steric Acid to 180*. Once wax reaches desired temp, add your dye, blend well then add fragrance and again blend well. Allow wax to cool to 160-165 and pour into a room temp or chilled mold. The colder the mold or wax the more rustic the finished candle will be. 

Poke relief holes around the wick of the candle once the wax has become solid but is still pliable. 

After the first pour has cooled some, reheat your reserved wax from your first pour and refill the void (sink hole) in the candle until you reach the level of the first pour. You will want your second pour to be 10* hotter than your first pour to minimize lines from the second pour. Repeat the re-pour process as necessary. To make a rustic finished candle, do not heat the molds and pour the wax at 165*.

 

 To make a mottled/rustic candle, simply use the wax and no additives or add MottleMax™ per product instructions. To make a smooth opaque creamy looking candle add Vybar 103 at the rate of 1/2 tsp per lb of wax. Both can be used to make a rustic cold pour candle. A candle with Vybar 103 or Mottle Max will hold more fragrance oil than one with none.








Finishing Touches!

Although a rustic candle always makes a great centerpiece, I thought it seemed a bit plain for my fall/harvest table. To finish this candle re-heat the left over wax and add some Coffee/Caramel Liquid Candle Dye to make it a dark brown. Allow to cool just until it will pour but stop quickly and pour down the sides of the candle to give it a "drizzled" look. I did add a touch of the IGI 6006 wax to soften the look a bit but that is not necessary.

Enjoy this simple but unique look this fall! For increased value and retail sales try placing them on a cute Tin Candle Plate. Some Rustic Potpourri looks great in the bottom of the bag around the candle and pan as well! Scent some to match the candle!