Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Crock Pot Hot Process Soap!

Hot Process Soap is the same basic soap as Cold Process...without the hefty wait time! Although it does not look as smooth it is still beautiful and smells great too! If space is an issue or time, Hot Process or HP soap may be your best friend! I am really just a novice myself with HP although I am a seasoned CP soaper. I am finding this method is quite interesting and fulfilling to make. I am testing a variety of recipes in the coming months to see what works best for me and will likely begin to sell some of these soaps as well. I am thinking about trying a shampoo bar next! I love finding new methods of making the things I love!


To begin here is what you will need to make Hot Process Soap in your Crock Pot!

Crock Pot with high and low settings (one with a removable crock is best), Digital Scale, Gloves, Eye Protection, Respirator Mask, Stick Blender, Spatula, Stainless Spoon, Wire Whisk or Potato Masher
Pyrex or HDPE plastic Measure Cups (1 for lye water and one for weighing the oils)

Soap Oils: I did a small batch but you can adjust this to your liking later too
6 oz Crisco or Ez Soy Wax
6 oz Coconut Oil
6 oz Palm Oil
6 oz Olive Oil
3.35 oz Sodium Hydroxide
9 oz. water
1.5 oz fragrance. I used our Drakkar Type
Gel Tones Colorant. I used Neon Green which comes out a very nice minty color.
Milky Way Molds 

Start by weighing out the Sodium Hydroxide into a Glass Pyrex (plastic is static prone, glass is not) and by weighing into a Pyrex measure Cup 9 ounces of ICE COLD water. Wearing your eye protection and respirator mask and gloves, place the cup of water in a sink and SLOWLY add the lye to the water stirring constantly using a stainless steel or plastic spoon. THIS WILL GET VERY HOT!!! Lye is VERY caustic! If any should splash on you, IMMEDIATELY rinse well with ice cold water! Never mix lye outside and then move indoors. Use the vent on your range to ventilate the room or open a door or a window. Your respirator will allow you to breathe safely during this process. Spilling lye is far more dangerous.

Once this is done, weigh your oils and place in the crock pot on high until they are melted. Always use your scale to weigh your oils. They do not need to be melted before placing in the crock pot for HP soap. 

After the oils have all melted, add your lye solution and stir until it is blended using the spoon to avoid splashing any of the lye water. This is important, remember lye can be dangerous. Keep your hands gloved and your eye protection on at all times when handling the lye and raw soap.

Now Stick blend your soap until it reaches trace. Trace looks like this. Sort of like a thick cooked pudding. This will take a few minutes depending on your particular recipe. Blend in 30 second bursts followed by stirring gently using the stick blender. Burst, stir etc. Now its time to cover the soap up and let it cook!

Keep stirring your soap. It will bubble, froth, separate like curds and finally begin to look like vaseline, that is soap kiddo's!  Use a spoon, potato masher or stainless whisk for this stage. Stir WELL, keep on stirring, people flop at this stage because they aren't stirring well enough.

 Once it looks like vaseline, add your scent, dye and stir well then mold. Wait until the soap cools and remove from the molds. 

Bitter Creek sells Milky Way molds that are GREAT for making HP soap!! Be sure to grease them before placing the soap in them for easier release. Pam Cooking Spray works great!

Monday, April 14, 2014

Fresh Peach After Bath Oil

This month I wanted to do something that just screamed summer. It had to smell like summer, be a product I'd use in the summer and so on! I love the water & I love the sun but both tend to dry my skin out. Here is the perfect solution for summer OR winter dry skin! After Bath Oil Spray! So simple to make and yet so nice for that weary dry skin without feeling oily!

First of all, you will need to have a digital scale to weigh your scent, and the Cyclomethicone and the Rice Bran oil. I like Rice Bran oil because it is very light and absorbs nicely into the skin without feeling too heavy. Because you will be using 50% Cyclomethicone, the finished product will have a silky smooth, almost powdery feel! It's quite amazing!

What you will need:

Fresh Peach Fragrance Oil, BCS
Rice Bran Oil

8 oz Black Spray Cap
8 oz Clear Bullet Bottle

1. On your digital scale weight out 4 oz of Rice Bran oil.
2. To that weigh in .4 oz of Fresh Peach Fragrance.
This will be 5% of the total weight of the product so you will know that as long as by IFRA standards your scent is at least 5% safe for 4.C Body creams, oils, lotions of all types (except baby products) per the charts on our site.
3. Blend these items well to prevent any chance of the fragrance not blending with the Cyclomethicone in the next step.
4. Now weigh in 4 oz of Cyclomethicone
5. Place the cap on the bottle
6. Shake well.

As you can see, this is a very quick, simple project to make but it has an amazingly wonderful effect on dry, weary skin! The added bonus is the great scent along with the great product. An excellent product to sell any time of year, in any climate! This product feels amazing! Use on wet or dry skin, any time!

Happy Bath & Body Creating!

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Fruity Loops SOAP!

I absolutely LOVE our Fruity Loops scent. It brings me right back to Saturday morning cartoons when I'd watch The Roadrunner and the Coyote battle it out while eating breakfast. It makes me think of hurrying through breakfast so I could get outside and play! Scents play a huge role in memories!

I've done a few projects in the past using this particular scent and every one is a crowd pleaser every time! Weather you are 65 or 5, you will likely identify with this scent! This week I am going over how to make a layered rainbow soap using none other than Fruity Loops fragrance!

Supplies List:
Wooden Soap Box Mold

Wax Paper or Freezer Paper
Digital Scale
Fruity Loops Fragrance
Gel Tones Soap Stable Dyes
Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Coconut Oil
Pyrex or HDPE measure Cups

This mold holds 3 pounds of oils perfectly. Here is the recipe I use to make this soap. It hardens up beautifully when fully cured and has a great lather!

Fruity Loops Soap Recipe
24 weight ounces Pomace Olive Oil
12 weight ounces Palm Oil

12 weight ounces Coconut Oil
6.6 weight ounces of lye
12 weight ounces of ice cold water

Mix the lye according to proper safety instructions. If you have never made soap before, please be sure to check out our "How to make CP soap instructions" So you are sure to use the proper safety precautions! Working with lye can be dangerous, BE SURE TO WEAR a pair of safety glasses or goggles, a respirator and wear gloves and always take your time and be safe! :)

Melt and mix your oils together and divide them up into 6 equal amounts using the pyrex or HDPE measure cups. Each cup should have 8 weight ounces of the oil mixture. Add your dyes to each cup. For the Red, I used Tomato Red for the Orange I used the Neon Orange for the Yellow I used Neon Yellow, for the Green I used the Neon Green for the Blue I used the Ultramarine Blue and for the Violet the Ultramarine Violet. 

Line your mold according to the instructions on our website. Mix each color one at a time, so weigh out 3.1 ounces of the lye solution (I soap with room temp oils and lye solution for the best results and DO NOT insulate!) and add it to the first color, the violet...blend using a stick blender if you are comfortable with that or use a wire whisk and mix well. At thin trace, pour into the bottom of the mold and allow it to set but not get cold then repeat this process on the next layer, blue, then green, yellow, orange and finally red. Be sure to wait long enough between layers so the don't get funky lines but not so long that they don't adhere. For me it's about 20 minutes.

This is what the finished layers inside the log will look like. This is the actual photos of each layer made into a single graphic to show what they look like before they have set. This soap is super fun to make and even more fun when people pick it up and realize, they know that scent! A sure crowd pleaser!

To add a bit of fun instead of using a straight cutter on your log, use a wavy cutter or add a soap stamp! To package, use our soap boxes and labels!

Happy Soap Making!

Friday, March 14, 2014

April Showers

Aaaaah the time of year when the trees start to sprout their new leaves and the flowers start to push through the soil. I LOVE spring! This month I will be showing you how to make the Aloe Body Wash for those "April Showers". For those of you that have not found their way to making Bath and Body items, this is the perfect opportunity! This product, paired with our amazing Lotion base is a sure hit in any market!

This amazing body wash is a crystal clear gel that stays thick even after adding fragrance! As an added bonus, it washes off so clean it leaves your skin feeling smoother than ever! This product also doubles as a clear hair shampoo, making it even more marketable for your business. Enriched with Aloe Vera, Chamomile, Sage, Wheat Germ, Avocado Oil and more! PH Balance 5.87.

What you will need:
PET Plastic Bottles & Caps
Aloe Body Wash
FD&C Bath & Body Dyes- I used the Blue
Fragrance- I used Texas Bluebonnet

Instructions for use:
Add 1/2 to no more than 1 oz. of soap safe fragrance oil to 1 gallon of base. Add liquid Bath & Body dye in drops until desired color is achieved. Stir thoroughly but gently. Pour into bottles with a funnel, or use our gallon jug pump.
*Caution: Heating or adding too much fragrance oil can cause gel to become thinner! We do not recommend heating this product. Some fragrance oils can cause clouding in clear liquid bases. Always make a small test batch to determine which fragrances work well in each formula.


Colorants: The best color choices for this product are the FD&C Liquid Dyes or the Cosmetic Grade Gel Tone Colorants. Micas and exfoliants will either sink to the bottom or rise to the top in this formulation.

Packaging: PET or HDPE plastic packaging is recommended for your finished product.

Storage: Store this product in it's original container tightly closed at room temperature.    

Best Used By: One year from your date of purchase.
We recommend using a sharpie marker to date your stock once your receive it. Also be sure to rotate your stock with every shipment to use the oldest stock first. 

Shelf Life Once Used in Manufacturing: One year from your manufacturing date.         

INCI Ingredients for product labeling:

Water, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Lauramide Glucoside and Lauryl Glucoside, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Gel, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben and Propylparaben.

Remember to properly label your products per FDA guidelines, listing all ingredients by their INCI names in order of predominance (in order of most to least in the formula).
Bath & Body Measuring Chart!

Chart Based on 1 oz per Gallon
(cut these amounts in half for products you only use 1/2 oz per gallon in)
Amount of
Bath Base
you are making
to add
in Ounces
on a
digital scale
Amount in
Table Spoons
in Tea Spoons
in Drops

1 Gallon
(128 oz.)
add 1 oz. 1 2 Tbsp 6 tsp 29.57 28.35 652
1/2 Gallon
(64 oz.)
add 1/2 oz. .5 1 Tbsp 3 tsp 14.79 14.17 326
32 oz.
(1 quart)
add 1/4 oz. .25 1/2 Tbsp 1 1/2 tsp 7.39 7.09 163
16 oz.
(1 pound)
add 1/8 oz. .125 1/4 Tbsp 3/4 tsp 3.7 3.54 81
8 oz. add 1/16 oz. .0625 1/8 Tbsp 3/8 tsp 1.85 1.77 40
4 oz.
1/32 oz. .03125 1/16 Tbsp 3/16 tsp .925 .885 20
*(Based on an average of 23 drops per gram or 115 drops per teaspoon.)

Want to figure out what percentage you're adding when you add an ounce to the gallon?
Take the amount of additive in ounces (1), + the amount of the base (128 oz.) = 129 total ounces.
Now take the additive (1 oz) divided by the total (129 oz) and you get = .00775
Take that number and multiply (x) 100, and that gives you the percentage of .775%,
which is a little over 3/4ths of a percent.

Happy Bath & Body Making!

Friday, February 28, 2014

Room Spray For Kids!

Marketing to Mom has been the norm but when marketing to kids you find yourself faced with a whole new set of rules! Kids are not going to go for the scent, they are going to go for the packaging which is what makes making these room sprays so much fun! Don't get me wrong, the scent is still everything once the package is perfect!

To make these the list is quite simple you will need:
Bottles. I find the 4 oz clear bottles PERFECT for this project.
Caps. Black, Clear, White. Does not matter just look at what looks best with your finished product!
Labels. Again, it doesn't matter what color but make sure it all looks good together. I prefer white
MICA. This item is KEY! It is the color, the sparkle and all the fun!
Fragrance. Again here is where you can get fun! Here are some ideas! Because a lot of parents only buy Phthalate Free, all of the scents are Phthalate Free that I have chosen.

Cyclomethicone can be used in a variety of ways. This clear liquid is a silicone with absolutely no odor, unlike alcohol based sprays! It mixes with FO’s or EO’s beautifully with no clouding or separation! It has a silky smooth feel and is dry, not greasy. It is commonly used in personal care products such as lotions, creams, deodorants, conditioners, make-up, hair sprays, etc. Can safely be used in PET or HDPE plastic bottles. PVC is not recommended. Small bottles with fine mist sprayers are recommended (this product goes a long way and a small bottle will last awhile!). This stuff is truly amazing, once you try it you’ll be hooked!

Instructions for use:

Mix in FO or EO at any dilution depending on desired strength and recommended usage levels of FO or EO. Common dilution rates are 1 part FO/6 parts cyclo up to 1 part FO/3 parts cyclo. For these sprays I used about a 20% dilution rate or about 4 parts cyclo to 1 part fragrance.
Green Monster Spray: Scented in Gummy Bears colored using Pearl Green mica
Lavender Monster Spray: Scented in Spiced Gum Drops using Pearl Violet Mica
Yellow Monster Spray: Scented in Banana with Pearl Yellow Mica
Pink Monster Spray: Scented in Bubble Gum with Pearl Pink Mica
White Monster Spray: Scented in Vanilla Bean Supreme with Pearl White Mica

Blue Monster Spray: Scented in Monkey Farts and colored with Pearl Blue Mica

White Angel/Princess Spray: Scented in Baby FCC and colored with Pearl White Mica
Gold Angel/Princess Spray: Scented in Tutti Fruity and colored with 24 Karat Gold Mica
Pink Angel/Princess Spray: Scented in Fruity Loops and colored with Pearl Pink Mica
Yellow Angel/Princess Spray: Scented in Banana and colored with Pearl Yellow Mica
Blue Angel/Princess Spray: Scented in Blackberry and colored with Blue Pearl Mica

Use your imagination. On the monster sprays consider a label that has a cute monster graphic, nothing scary of course with a saying like Monsters, Monsters go away, don't come back another day. Or a simple label that says NO MORE MONSTERS! On the Angel Spray look at the label above or use something simple like Angel Spray makes for special angel dreams. You could call it Good Dreams Fairy Spray etc. Use your imagination! Kids love things that are geared toward their imaginations!

Happy Crafting!