Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Bronzing Coconut Body Whip!

 ~Bronzing Coconut Body Whip!~

Conquer the dog days of summer with luxurious shimmering body whip!

Materials you will need:
~Glass or Plastic Clear containers (our plastic PET jars would work great)
~32oz Coconut Oil (melted to room temp)
~Large Glass/Metal mixing bowl
~Whisk/Hand mixer/stand mixer

Step 1 - Mix Coconut Oil and Sweet Almond Oil together until well blended. I found that using a simple flat beater attachment on my stand mixer worked well at a medium speed. 

Step 2 - Slowly add your choice of skin safe fragrance oil. I used exactly 1/4oz of fragrance oil and the scent was great. (I used Pomegranate Lemonade). It wasn't too strong, and not too weak. A little goes a long way! Beat well. 

*Note: I switched over to a hand mixer at this point, in order to "fluff" up the mixture more by whipping as much air as possible into the mix. 

You'll notice the mixture turn more white the longer you mix and the oils blend together. You'll also see bubbles start to appear!

Step 3 - Working with Coconut in the hot summer months has its downfalls. coconut oil is a very soft oil, that melts with the simple warmth from your fingers. If the room that you're working in is warm, you may need to put the bowl into a fridge for a few minutes (I left it in for just 5 minutes), to cool the oils back below room temp, in order to start seeing a real "whipped" look as soon as you continue mixing.

Step 4 - Once you start seeing a real "whipped" look to your oils, go ahead and add your Bronze Mica Powder. This is another product where a little really does go a long way. I used just 2 teaspoons of mica to achieve a really nice shimmery shade of bronze (the pictures don't do justice). Be sure to mix thoroughly!

*The mixture was still a bit too creamy (above), so I put the bowl in the fridge for another 5 minutes to achieve the perfect "whipped" consistency (below).*


Step 5 (final step) - Once you've completely mixed all oils and mica together thoroughly, you can simply scoop the mixture out of the bowl with a spoon to place into your containers, or you can put all of the mixture into a gallon size plastic bag, cut a small hole into the bottom corner, and neatly squeeze the mixture into your containers. (This really seemed to cut down on the amount of mess for me.)

 *Note: Since this project is Coconut based, be sure to store in a cooler area (less than 65°F) to prevent the mixture from completely melting!


 If there is a Candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made, we would love to hear from you!
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com

Happy Body Whip making!


Saturday, June 30, 2018

Marble Container Candles!

~Marble Container Candles~
(Made with EZ Parasoy wax)

Put a colorful new twist on plain container candles!

Materials you will need:
~ Container candle making supplies, or already prepared solid colored container candles (I made my own candles made with EZ Parasoy wax)
~ Toothpick diameter 6" piece of wire
~ Bowl of ice water (optional)

Step 1 - Choose your base container candle. When selecting a container candle to marble, choosing a soy blended wax is ideal, due to the softness of the wax. 

*Note: The softer the wax, the more likely the colors are, to fading into each other over time. A 100% soy wax will morph into one color in about a week, losing the marbled look.


Step 2 - Taking a completely cooled and prepared container candle, use the toothpick diameter 6" piece of wire to poke multiple holes along the glass, until you reach the bottom of the container. It's not recommended to poke too many holes (about 6 maximum), to prevent the dye from flooding the base candle into one new color.

*Note: Make sure to clear all wax from the hole that you have just created. This will allow the liquid dye to disperse easier down the candle. 

Step 3 - Take the liquid candle dye and apply one drop of dye to each hole that you made along the sides of the candle. One drop is all you need to make nice color swirls in the base candle. 

Step 4 - The drops of dye usually do not spread all the way to the bottom of the candle on their own, which is where the metal wire comes into play again. Use the metal wire to follow the original punctures, to force the dye all the way to the bottom of the candle. 

Step 5 - After all lines of dye have been forced to the bottom of the container, use a heat gun to start on one line at a time. Focusing on just one line of dye, slowly follow the line of dye with the heat gun in a sweeping motion back and forth. As soon as you see the wax starting to melt, you'll notice the dye quickly moving along the melted area. 

*Note: This is where I found a helpful trick. Sometimes if heated too much where a bit too much wax is melted, the dye will flood the melted area in a fairly large amount rather quickly. Using a bowl of ice cold water, as soon as you see where the dye is flooding a bit too much, stop the heat gun and quickly place your container candle into the bowl of water just until it is level with the surface of the wax within the container. This will "freeze" the design without morphing your entire candle into one color. 

The marble designs become very pretty, very quickly :)

Step 6 - When you have completed all sides of your candle, you'll see that the surface of your candle is a bit "less than satisfactory". There will be dye, wax bits and a whole lot of uneven surfaces. Wait until the candle is completely cooled, then using your heat gun in a circular motion, heat the candle surface just until the surface is completely flat.

Step 7 (final step) - Once the surface is completely cooled, take a napkin or paper toweling to carefully follow along just above the surface, to clean up any wax or dye for a neat, clean look.

Secure a lid to each candle for the finishing piece. These candles are simply beautiful! 

If there is a fun Candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made, we would love to hear from you!
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com

Happy Candle Making!

Thursday, May 31, 2018

Epsom Salt Scrub Bars!

~Epsom Salt Scrub Bars~
(Made with Clear M&P Soap Base)

Sit back and relax with these stress-relieving Epsom Salt Scrub bars!

Materials you will need:
~ Clear Melt & Pour Soap Base (This base is also VEGAN!)
~ Medium Microwave-safe bowl

Step 1 - Cut soap base into 1" cubes along score lines. Fill a medium microwave-safe bowl with the cubes and heat for 30 seconds at a time, while stirring well after each heating until the base is fully melted (an entire 2lb tray of soap takes roughly 3.5-4 minutes to fully melt). 

Step 2 - Once the base is fully melted, add your choice of FD&C dye to the desired shade of your choice. These dyes turn out very nicely! Stir well.

*Note: each block of base is 2lbs. I split the block and colored each lb a different color. 1lb of base makes nice size soap bars when using the ribbons mold.

Step 3 - Once your base is colored, add 1/8 cup of Epsom Salt per lb. of base and stir well. If you add too much salt, the bars will not hold together properly when removing the bars from the mold. 

*Note: The Epsom Salt will sink to the bottom of the base once added. This can not be avoided, however this is what makes up the nice designs on the finished bars. 

Step 4 - Add fragrance oil to the base. 1lb of base will need 1oz of skin safe fragrance oil. The Wild Watermelon fragrance smells amazing and is perfect for summer!

Step 5 - Pour the base into clean soap molds and allow to cool for at least 3 hours at room temperature before attempting to remove from the molds. 

Step 6 (final step) - Remove from molds and package in cello bags or plastic wrap. 


If there is a fun Candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made, we would love to hear from you!
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com.

Happy Soap Making!

Saturday, March 31, 2018

Spring Flower Wax Melts!

~Spring Flower Wax Melts~
(Made with EZ Parasoy Wax)
With Spring time finally here, flowers seem to always be the main focus when it comes to
spring-themed items; and for good reason!
Brightly colored, fresh picked vibrant flowers are the perfect pick-me-up
after a long cold winter season.
Speaking of brightly colored flowers, this month we're going to focus on adding a new look to those ever so popular clamshell wax melts. I've never personally seen wax melts like the ones you're about to see, so I thought it'd make for a fun and easy blog to kick off the month of April.
Materials you will need:
~ Candle Dye (I used the liquid dyes)
Step 1 - Heat the wax to 180-195°.

Step 2 - Once the wax reaches desired temp, add your fragrance oil (I used 1oz fragrance to 1lb of wax), blend well. Then add your choice of candle dye and again blend well. Preparing your wax embeds that will set on the surface of the initial poured clamshell, will be the main focus at this point. I used the Purple/Violet Liquid Dye for the top flower embeds, and Hot Pink/Pink Liquid Dye for the base color. I also used the popular "Apple Flower" fragrance oil for these.
Step 3 - Allow the wax to cool to a temperature of 130-140° to make sure that the heat of the wax will not melt the clamshell molds. A melted plastic mold makes for a mess!

Step 4 - Once the wax has cooled to the desired temp, start carefully pouring the scented/colored wax into the embed molds. These will cool rather quickly compared to the larger clamshell base that you will be pouring shortly. Set aside to cool.

*Tip: Setting the embeds in the fridge for a few minutes helps greatly with the molded embeds to release from the mold with ease. If taken from the mold too soon before the embeds are too warm, the embeds are likely to break apart (as shown below).  

Step 5 - Repeat steps 2 & 3 to prepare the clamshell base color. Go ahead and pour the melted wax into the clamshells.


This is where a scale really comes in handy. The 6 cavity clamshell molds will hold 2.5oz of wax. I first filled the clamshell mold until it contained 2.2oz of wax. As soon as your base wax has been poured, take a cooled embed and gently set the embed in the center of the mold within the freshly poured hot wax. Each poinsettia embed weighs .3oz. After you have added the flower embed to the clamshell, you will have a perfectly filled 2.5oz clamshell.


Step 6 (final step) - Set entire clamshell aside to completely cool at room temperature for a few hours. Do not set in the fridge to cool! Cooling the wax too quickly will cause cracking and possible sink holes within the wax. When the clamshells are completely cooled, shut the lid of the clamshell, apply a warning label and you're done!
If there is ever a fun Candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made,
we would love to hear from you!
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com.

Happy Candle & Soap Making!