Test Burning Jar Candles

This is a subject that is often hotly debated by candle makers. What is the criteria for properly testing your jar candles burn? This blog will help you to determine how to most effectively burn test your candles for the proper wick size, proper burn and also for the best possible scent throw BUT it also addresses specific testing criteria set forth by the ASTM for SAFETY!!!

For my test, I will be making a paraffin blend container candle. When using paraffin wax, you must cure your candles at a minimum 24 hours before burning to ensure the wax is properly cured, for soy, soy blends and palm, a 48 hour minimum is required. Keep in mind that contrary to popular belief that scent in paraffin candles and ALL candles may also take up to two full weeks to cure. But to test the burn, not the scent throw, you can test starting at 24-48 hours post production. This candle is made using the IGI 4630 Paraffin Blend (Formerly Astor J-50) wax. 

My first test is always to test a four complete hour burn and look at what I have. Be certain always to time this. (To test, don't test more or less, just the four hours exactly at first.) I examine the melt pool depth and width, the flame height, how hot the glass feels on the outside of the candle and of course if it has fully cured two weeks, the scent throw of the candle.


After the first burn, and during the last moments of the burn cycle I evaluate several things. First, how does the melt pool look? Is it edge to edge? If not, how much wax is left on the glass? Is it in just a few spots? Is it less than 1/8"? If so, the first burn is promising and it appears my wick is correct. If there is more than 1/8" all the way around the jar, I would likely replace the wick using one size larger the next test. If it is correct, I wait at least 6-8 hours and repeat the process. I am also of course in this time evaluating the scent throw (Specific to the diameter jar I am making of course). I will burn 4 full four hour burn cycles exactly like this before determining if the wick is indeed correct. 

With each test burn I check the following:

What is the length of the charred wick? Be sure to always trim it before each burn. If using a paraffin wax, it should be 1/4" if using soy, 1/8".

How deep is the melted wax against the glass? It should be at least 1/4" but no more than 1/2" for both optimal scent throw and safety. 

What is the height of the flame at the beginning and

end of each burn cycle? This you will read more about with the ASTM standards below. I like mine to be around 1/2" and just a hair over 1" at a maximum at the end of the burn cycle.

Did the melt pool reach from edge to edge?

Was there any smoking at all? Dancing flames?

Was the scent throw poor, good, great or outstanding?

 

If indeed based on the four test burns my candle is performing to my expectations I then move on to burning the rest of the candle fully to be certain that the life of the candle burns as well as the first four burns. This is not really something that should be skipped. It is a fire, you are placing it in someone's home. Safety First!

Below are the ASTM fire safety standards for testing candles. Once you have your candles burning to what you feel is correct, evaluate it using the exact standards as outlined below:

Per the ASTM, this is the standard for test burning candles. Every person/company testing should use the same criteria without exception.

F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES

•Burn Test parameters:

– Candles burned in 4-hour burn cycles until end of

useful life except tea lights and gel candles

– Wicks to be trimmed to manufacturer’s label instructions

– Burned in laboratory with minimum draft

– Laboratory temperatures between 68°F to 86°F

– Candles spaced a minimum of 20 cm apart

– Flame heights observed at periodic intervals and recorded at the end of each burn cycle

F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES

•Maximum Flame height requirement

– UP TO 3 INCHES (MOST CANDLES)

– UP TO 3.75 INCHES (CERTAIN RELIGIOUS CANDLES)

– Candles intended to be burned outside are exempt

• No secondary ignition

• No container failures

• For pillar candles no flame impingement of flame on the supporting surface at end of life

F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES

• STABILITY

• Initially candles must remain stable when tilted to 10* off level

• Tilt stability of candles while in test
– “BURNING CANDLE SHALL NOT TIP OVER DURING

BURN TESTING” WHICH APPLIES TO FREESTANDING

CANDLES ONLY

I hope that this has given you all a bit more insight on test burning candles. It isn't something that should ever be skipped. Your testing now for safety of your product will prevent possible fires in the future!

Happy Candlemaking!
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It's Hot Cocoa Season!

With Jack Frost already nipping at my nose (it was 0 degrees outside in Duluth, MN the other day!) and BCN having Hot Chocolate fragrance as the scent of the month, it's the perfect time to make a delicious 'mug' of chocolate delight, only with a wick!

Here is what you need to make these cute candles that smell like a slice or at least a mug of heaven!
IGI 4636 Wax 
IGI 4794 Wax
Brown Color Block
Hot Chocolate Fragrance
60-44-18z Wick
Wide Mouth Mason Jar or any glass coffee mug (the wick will change by changing jars!)

Instructions: Heat your IGI 4636 wax to 175-185*. Once the wax reaches desired temp, add your dye, blend well then add fragrance and again blend well. This wax should be poured between 155-165* into heated containers and cooled as slow as possible for optimal adhesion to glass and a smoother finished candle top.
*For jelly and mason jars or other jars that are taller than they are wide, we recommend pouring the wax at about 180-185* into heated containers and cooling as slow as possible. The increased pour temp will allow for more even cooling and less sink holes. 

 

Allow the candle to cool for about 4-6 hours. Then heat your IGI 4794 to about 175. Add your scent, and then allow to cool until the wax forms a skin on top and start stirring or whipping with a fork. I just allowed mine to get a bit foamy and poured it, you can actually whip the wax so it looks like whipped cream piled high on the cocoa too!

This candle can be done with coffee scents as well making the froth for cafe' au lait! With winter a reality, at least lighting a warm and cozy scent will make you believe it's warmer than it really is ;)



Happy Candlemaking!
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Lush Lava

What is Lush Lava? It's a Hair & Body Mist with a twist! This month I tried something that I've had in my head for a few years. To try "layering" our Cyclomethicone and Hair & Body Protein Mist. It was a huge success! I like products that can be used multiple ways as do my customers. I always feel that people are more willing to buy when they feel they are getting more bang for their buck. I tend to agree that is how I shop as well.

Lush Lava when shaken prior to use will allow for the products to temporarily 'mix'. Since oil and water don't actually mix this part is essential to get the benefit of both products during use. It is awesome feeling on the skin and when used lightly in the hair has the benefit of a light conditioner AND a shine spray! I love it!

For this project you will need only a few items:
Hair & Body Protein Mist
Cyclomethicone
FD&C Body Dyes
Fragrance
PET Bottle for Packaging
Fine Mist Sprayer

*A Pyrex Measure Cup and a digital scale are also needed.

First, make your Protein Mist.
Instructions for use:
Add 1/4 to no more than 1/2oz. of lotion safe fragrance oil to 1 gallon of base. Add liquid Bath & Body dye in drops until desired color is achieved. Stir thoroughly. Pour into bottles with a funnel. For smaller amounts, there is a measuring chart found here: http://cart.candlesupply.com/Bases-c-332.html This chart is based on 1 oz per gallon so be sure to adjust accordingly!
Caution: Adding more than the recommended amount of fragrance oil may cause separation. Shake well before using! This product has a milky appearance so clouding is not an issue.
Some fragrances will cause separation of this base, please test your fragrances if this may be a problem. Shaking will incorporate it and it is still usable. 

 Next make your Cyclomethicone. Because this may go on both the hair and skin, I used only 10% fragrance. You can use a bit more or a bit less just be certain to check the IFRA percentages for each scent you plan to make because many are not skin safe to 10%! Incorporate the fragrance into the Cyclomethicone by gently shaking. 

*Some scents do NOT blend into cyclomethicone as easily as others. For this project I would recommend only using those that do without any separation. Using the method where you blend with vegetable oil then add to the cyclo may cause the hair or skin to become excessively oily. 

Once you have both products made, it's time to mix! Just pour your Protein Mist into the bottom of the bottle, filling it half way. Once this is done, GENTLY pour (I tilt the bottle) the Cyclomethicone on top of this. Once it settles, there will be two clear layers of product in the bottle. Be sure to note on the instructions to SHAKE WELL before each use to get the full benefits of each product. Your ingredients list will look like this:
Clear Layer: Cyclomethicone J and Fragrance Oil
Colored Layer: Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Cetrimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dimethicone, Sea Salt, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, FD&C Colorant (which ever one you used) and Fragrance. To the left are two bottles. The one with the white cap shows the product shaken up to show what it looks like "mixed" the second shows it in the layers as it's settled. This is an easy product that is fun to make!


Happy Crafting!
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New Wood Rose Packaging Coming soon!

We have some new packaging coming to Bitter Creek that should be on the cart soon! There are three new bags for packaging the AromaMagic™ Wood Roses! I am pretty excited about this! There are a large and a small with the standard floral film print in clear and one that is stamped and reads wooden roses. They are awesome! If you have never worked with Wood Roses, here is your chance. Sell by the single or the bouquet or even use singles as promotional items to "give away" with your card and perhaps a discount? 

Our delicate, hand crafted AromaMagic™ Wood Roses look very realistic, and last forever! Never worry about your beautiful roses wilting again. These make great keepsakes and gifts that will last much longer than real cut flowers. Available in a great selection of over 20 gorgeous colors to match any décor! Here is what you will need to create fantastic Wood Roses!

Wood Roses
Reed Diffuser Base
Fragrance (I used Spring Rain for these)
Wood Roses Sleeves (COMING SOON!)
A Spray Bottle
A Bowl etc. to catch any over-spray. I use a Pyrex baking dish.

Lightly mist the wood flowers with any of our fragrance oils mixed with our AromaMagic™ Reed Diffuser Base in a spray bottle to scent. Be careful not to overly saturate the petals as they can fall apart if too much fragrance oil is used. Spray evenly with a fine mist so as not to leave visible oil spots. Be aware that some fragrance oils may cause discoloration, so we recommend testing each fragrance on a single flower before making a large batch. Do not dip or submerse the flower in fragrance oil!

Sell refresher mist in a 1 or 2 oz spray bottle or in a glass dropper bottle for customers to freshen their flowers! Great for fairs, festivals, craft shows, flea markets, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, Valentine’s Day, mother’s day, get well soon! Great for table centerpieces (do in wedding colors, school colors for graduation parties, sports team colors, etc). Great items for fundraisers! Use wire cutters to cut stems to varying lengths and add silk leaves to create your own floral arrangement. Wrap a dozen long stemmed AromaMagic™ wood roses with some dried baby’s breath in a Floral Sleeve tied with a sheer ribbon for a romantic bouquet. Mix several colors or just one single color to create a stunning bouquet. Use as a classy drawer freshener in your lingerie drawer! 


 
Single roses sell great in bars… why not sell scented wood roses that will leave a longer lasting impression (wrap a blank white label around the stem for those who want to write a note or give their number)! Great gift for mommy-to-be at her baby shower… pink roses scented in baby powder! Real Estate agents, these make the perfect gifts for your clients to welcome them to their new home! Bosses, perfect gift for secretary’s day! Interior designers can now make custom floral arrangements in designer colors to match any décor! Great in bathrooms, bedrooms, offices, hospital rooms (especially for people who may be allergic to real flowers!).

We’ve seen crafters sell scented wood roses for $1 to $2 a piece, or an average of $18.00 per dozen. Great profit item!

Caution: Direct sunlight may cause colors to fade over time. Colors shown may look different on your computer screen than in real life.

Petals are hand crafted of birch wood and are finished with green silk leaves and a 13” long bendable green stem. Available in bunches of 8 closed bud roses.

 


Happy Crafting!
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Holiday Crafting with Kids

With Mason Jars & Water Crystals on sale this month at BCS what a PERFECT time to visit making these gems!

These are a great project for the holidays. If you are a Scout Leader or a are in charge of a Sunday School Class or even a Grade School Teacher, these make PERFECT take and make projects for the kids to give Mom for the Christmas! If you have a craft show booth, have the product on hand and have the kids do them as take and make where they  "help" and picks their own scent (This can get messy so make sure to have an extra set of hands if you choose this route!) but in general these make great air fresheners for the bathroom or other small area.

Supplies List:
Fragrance (I used Mistletoe & Ivy)
Mason Jars
Vented Daisy Lid
Plastic Sealing Disc
Water crystals
FD&C Bath and Body Dye (I used Green) *DO NOT USE CANDLE DYES!
Distilled Water

Fill your jar with water. For every ounce the jar holds, use  .75 oz distilled water. So for an 8 oz jar you would use 6 oz water, for a 12 oz jar 9 oz water and for a 16 oz jar you would use 12 oz water. Warm the water up so that it's not boiling but hot, this helps the water crystals to absorb the water MUCH faster! Add now your dye. I used the green FD&C Bath and Body dye for this and just added until it was the color I wanted.  Now for every 6 oz of water, use 1 tablespoon of the beads for the best results. You can use less but I find more is better. Add these items together. Photo shows what the beads look like as they are placed in water before they are fully swelled.

Once this part is done, it's a waiting game. I like to wait until the water crystals have absorbed all the water and are plump. Once this happens add your fragrance. I find that depending on the scent, I like about 1/4 oz of scent per 8 oz jar. Add your scent to this and let it be. I don't stir or anything at this point, I find that the less floating water in these the better off you are. ONLY use distilled water to prevent the possibility of mold and pass this tip along to your customer who will refresh them as well. Distilled water only. :) 

These are not over strong with most scents so are best suited to small areas. You can decorate the jars, you can add labels, different colored Daisy lids and more!   

Smelly Jellies are the PERFECT item for Holiday Crafting with Kids!

Happy Crafting!
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