As we bring in 2014, I keep thinking of all the wonderful scents I love to have around me all winter. For me, it's warm comforting scents, scents that remind me of the crisp outdoors and spicy scents!
This months blog is on how to turn this into an all day, every day scent by making Reed Diffusers! Unlike wax melts that require electricity and candles that require a flame or even a room spray that only lasts so long, Reed Diffusers are a full time fragrance option! Great for your office, bedroom, bathroom, dorm room or anywhere you want scent!
Here is what you will need to make the Reed Diffusers:
Window Front Bags
4 oz Bullet Bottle PET with Black Flip Cap
Reed Diffuser Base
8 oz Mason Jar
Vented Daisy Lid
Aroma Flex Wands
Fragrance Oil
First, measure out the amount of fragrance you want. Recommended use is 20-40% fragrance. I used 40% or 1.6 weight oz of fragrance for mine and the remainder of 2.4 oz Reed Diffuser Base. Blend these two items together in your PET bottle. Next, place the jar with the lid on, inside the bag and the reeds. I find they fit best if you "pre-twist" the reeds around a pencil and place them in the jar, then place the oil next to it in the bag. Simply place directions for use on a paper inside the bag and label the bag with your business label.
Reed diffusers are best placed
in areas with good airflow to carry the fragrance through the room. A
bottle of reed diffuser can last up to several months, depending on the
size of the bottle, and the number of reeds used. Make sure the bottle
or jar you use is short enough to allow the wands to "fan" or spread out
for the best fragrance diffusion. We also recommend labeling your
product with a caution to place in an area out of reach of children and
pets, where it is least likely to be knocked over, as the oil can stain
or damage some surfaces and can be harmful to children or pets if
spilled on them or ingested.
Our Reed Diffuser Base is formulated to blend with most
fragrance or essential oils. Reed base is VOC compliant. It is a clear,
odorless, low viscosity liquid designed to easily "wick up" or absorb
into the reeds without clogging. This allows for complete dispersion
into the air for maximum fragrance throw. Simply mix this unscented
base with any of our fragrance oils or your favorite essential oils!
Recommended usage is 20% fragrance, but up to 40% fragrance can be used.
You will need to test small batches to determine the best results.
Adjustments may need to be made depending on the strength and viscosity
of the fragrance oil being used (thicker oils may need a higher dilution
ratio in order to facilitate proper reed absorption and diffusing,
clarity and thorough blending). Our base is alcohol-free and has no
detectable odor or color. A tiny drop of liquid candle dye can be added
to color your diffuser oils for a more exciting look in clear glassware.
Be aware that fragrance oils often have a color of their own, which can
affect the finished color once dye is added.
Measuring Examples: 20%
fragrance load = .8 oz FO to 3.2 oz Base = 4 oz total bottle 30%
fragrance load = 1.2 oz FO to 2.8 oz Base = 4 oz total bottle 40%
fragrance load = 1.6 oz FO to 2.4 oz Base = 4 oz total bottle.
Reed diffusers make a great
flameless alternative to candles for those who prefer not to use flame
or electric warmers. They can also be accessorized to make a beautiful
decoration! Try adding small sea shells, colored glass marbles, small
river rocks, etc to the bottom of your diffuser bottles! Sets of 6 to 12
diffuser reeds, 4 to 16 oz reed fragrance and a diffuser bottle/vase
currently retail in the marketplace for anywhere from around $29.95 or
less in chain stores, and up to $76.00 in upscale boutiques! Lots of
room for great profits!
Happy Crafting!!!
Flicker
Welcome to the BC Blog! Here you'll find articles about our company Bitter Creek Candle Supply, Inc., as well as articles on candlemaking, soapmaking, bath & body, air fresheners, the craft business, etc! Grab a cup of coffee and make yourself at home :) Check back often for new articles and contests for our blog followers!
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
Saturday, December 14, 2013
Test Burning Jar Candles
This is a subject that is often hotly
debated by candle makers. What is the criteria for properly testing your jar
candles burn? This blog will help you to determine how to most effectively burn
test your candles for the proper wick size, proper burn and also for the best
possible scent throw BUT it also addresses specific testing criteria set forth by the ASTM for SAFETY!!!
For my test, I will be making a paraffin blend container candle. When using paraffin wax, you must cure your candles at a minimum 24 hours before burning to ensure the wax is properly cured, for soy, soy blends and palm, a 48 hour minimum is required. Keep in mind that contrary to popular belief that scent in paraffin candles and ALL candles may also take up to two full weeks to cure. But to test the burn, not the scent throw, you can test starting at 24-48 hours post production. This candle is made using the IGI 4630 Paraffin Blend (Formerly Astor J-50) wax.
My first test is always to test a four complete hour burn and look at what I have. Be certain always to time this. (To test, don't test more or less, just the four hours exactly at first.) I examine the melt pool depth and width, the flame height, how hot the glass feels on the outside of the candle and of course if it has fully cured two weeks, the scent throw of the candle.
After the first burn, and during the last moments of the burn cycle I evaluate several things. First, how does the melt pool look? Is it edge to edge? If not, how much wax is left on the glass? Is it in just a few spots? Is it less than 1/8"? If so, the first burn is promising and it appears my wick is correct. If there is more than 1/8" all the way around the jar, I would likely replace the wick using one size larger the next test. If it is correct, I wait at least 6-8 hours and repeat the process. I am also of course in this time evaluating the scent throw (Specific to the diameter jar I am making of course). I will burn 4 full four hour burn cycles exactly like this before determining if the wick is indeed correct.
With each test burn I check the following:
How deep is the melted wax against the glass? It should be at least 1/4" but no more than 1/2" for both optimal scent throw and safety.
What is the height of the flame at the beginning and
end of each burn cycle? This you will read more about with the ASTM standards below. I like mine to be around 1/2" and just a hair over 1" at a maximum at the end of the burn cycle.
Below are the ASTM fire safety standards for testing candles. Once you have your candles burning to what you feel is correct, evaluate it using the exact standards as outlined below:
•Maximum Flame height requirement
• STABILITY
For my test, I will be making a paraffin blend container candle. When using paraffin wax, you must cure your candles at a minimum 24 hours before burning to ensure the wax is properly cured, for soy, soy blends and palm, a 48 hour minimum is required. Keep in mind that contrary to popular belief that scent in paraffin candles and ALL candles may also take up to two full weeks to cure. But to test the burn, not the scent throw, you can test starting at 24-48 hours post production. This candle is made using the IGI 4630 Paraffin Blend (Formerly Astor J-50) wax.
My first test is always to test a four complete hour burn and look at what I have. Be certain always to time this. (To test, don't test more or less, just the four hours exactly at first.) I examine the melt pool depth and width, the flame height, how hot the glass feels on the outside of the candle and of course if it has fully cured two weeks, the scent throw of the candle.
After the first burn, and during the last moments of the burn cycle I evaluate several things. First, how does the melt pool look? Is it edge to edge? If not, how much wax is left on the glass? Is it in just a few spots? Is it less than 1/8"? If so, the first burn is promising and it appears my wick is correct. If there is more than 1/8" all the way around the jar, I would likely replace the wick using one size larger the next test. If it is correct, I wait at least 6-8 hours and repeat the process. I am also of course in this time evaluating the scent throw (Specific to the diameter jar I am making of course). I will burn 4 full four hour burn cycles exactly like this before determining if the wick is indeed correct.
With each test burn I check the following:
Below are the ASTM fire safety standards for testing candles. Once you have your candles burning to what you feel is correct, evaluate it using the exact standards as outlined below:
Per the ASTM, this is the standard for test burning candles. Every person/company
testing should use the same criteria without exception.
F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES
F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES
•Burn Test parameters:
– Candles burned in 4-hour
burn cycles until end of
useful life except tea
lights and gel candles
– Wicks to be trimmed to
manufacturer’s label instructions
– Burned in laboratory with
minimum draft
– Laboratory temperatures
between 68°F to 86°F
– Candles spaced a minimum
of 20 cm apart
– Flame heights observed at
periodic intervals and recorded at the end of each burn cycle
F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES
•Maximum Flame height requirement
– UP TO 3 INCHES (MOST
CANDLES)
– UP TO 3.75 INCHES (CERTAIN
RELIGIOUS CANDLES)
– Candles intended to be
burned outside are exempt
• No secondary ignition
• No container failures
• For pillar candles no flame impingement of flame on
the supporting surface at end of life
F 2417- 09 STANDARD SPECIFICATION
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES
FOR FIRE SAFETY FOR CANDLES
• STABILITY
• Initially candles must remain stable when tilted to
10* off level
• Tilt stability of candles while in test
– “BURNING CANDLE SHALL NOT TIP OVER DURING
– “BURNING CANDLE SHALL NOT TIP OVER DURING
BURN TESTING” WHICH APPLIES
TO FREESTANDING
CANDLES ONLY
I hope that this has given you all a bit more insight on test burning candles. It isn't something that should ever be skipped. Your testing now for safety of your product will prevent possible fires in the future!
Happy Candlemaking!
Flicker
I hope that this has given you all a bit more insight on test burning candles. It isn't something that should ever be skipped. Your testing now for safety of your product will prevent possible fires in the future!
Happy Candlemaking!
Flicker
Saturday, November 30, 2013
It's Hot Cocoa Season!
With Jack Frost already nipping at my nose (it was 0 degrees outside in Duluth, MN the other day!) and BCN having Hot Chocolate fragrance as the scent of the month, it's the perfect time to make a delicious 'mug' of chocolate delight, only with a wick!Here is what you need to make these cute candles that smell like a slice or at least a mug of heaven!
IGI 4636 Wax
IGI 4794 Wax
Brown Color Block
Hot Chocolate Fragrance
60-44-18z Wick
Wide Mouth Mason Jar or any glass coffee mug (the wick will change by changing jars!)
Instructions: Heat your IGI 4636 wax to 175-185*. Once the wax reaches desired temp, add your dye, blend well then add fragrance and again blend well. This wax should be poured between 155-165* into heated containers and cooled as slow as possible for optimal adhesion to glass and a smoother finished candle top.
*For jelly and mason jars or other jars that are taller than they are wide, we recommend pouring the wax at about 180-185* into heated containers and cooling as slow as possible. The increased pour temp will allow for more even cooling and less sink holes.
Allow the candle to cool for about 4-6 hours. Then heat your IGI 4794 to about 175. Add your scent, and then allow to cool until the wax forms a skin on top and start stirring or whipping with a fork. I just allowed mine to get a bit foamy and poured it, you can actually whip the wax so it looks like whipped cream piled high on the cocoa too!
This candle can be done with coffee scents as well making the froth for cafe' au lait! With winter a reality, at least lighting a warm and cozy scent will make you believe it's warmer than it really is ;)
Happy Candlemaking!
Flicker
Thursday, November 14, 2013
Lush Lava
What is Lush Lava? It's a Hair & Body Mist with a twist! This month I tried something that I've had in my head for a few years. To try "layering" our Cyclomethicone and Hair & Body Protein Mist. It was a huge success! I like products that can be used multiple ways as do my customers. I always feel that people are more willing to buy when they feel they are getting more bang for their buck. I tend to agree that is how I shop as well.
Lush Lava when shaken prior to use will allow for the products to temporarily 'mix'. Since oil and water don't actually mix this part is essential to get the benefit of both products during use. It is awesome feeling on the skin and when used lightly in the hair has the benefit of a light conditioner AND a shine spray! I love it!
For this project you will need only a few items:
Hair & Body Protein Mist
Cyclomethicone
FD&C Body Dyes
Fragrance
PET Bottle for Packaging
Fine Mist Sprayer
*A Pyrex Measure Cup and a digital scale are also needed.
First, make your Protein Mist.
Instructions for use:
Add 1/4 to no more than 1/2oz. of lotion safe fragrance oil to 1 gallon of base. Add liquid Bath & Body dye in drops until desired color is achieved. Stir thoroughly. Pour into bottles with a funnel. For smaller amounts, there is a measuring chart found here: http://cart.candlesupply.com/Bases-c-332.html This chart is based on 1 oz per gallon so be sure to adjust accordingly!
Caution: Adding more than the recommended amount of fragrance oil may cause separation. Shake well before using! This product has a milky appearance so clouding is not an issue.
Some fragrances will cause separation of this base, please test your fragrances if this may be a problem. Shaking will incorporate it and it is still usable.
Next make your Cyclomethicone. Because this may go on both the hair and skin, I used only 10% fragrance. You can use a bit more or a bit less just be certain to check the IFRA percentages for each scent you plan to make because many are not skin safe to 10%! Incorporate the fragrance into the Cyclomethicone by gently shaking.
*Some scents do NOT blend into cyclomethicone as easily as others. For this project I would recommend only using those that do without any separation. Using the method where you blend with vegetable oil then add to the cyclo may cause the hair or skin to become excessively oily.
Once you have both products made, it's time to mix! Just pour your Protein Mist into the bottom of the bottle, filling it half way. Once this is done, GENTLY pour (I tilt the bottle) the Cyclomethicone on top of this. Once it settles, there will be two clear layers of product in the bottle. Be sure to note on the instructions to SHAKE WELL before each use to get the full benefits of each product. Your ingredients list will look like this:
Clear Layer: Cyclomethicone J and Fragrance Oil
Colored Layer: Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Cetrimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dimethicone, Sea Salt, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, FD&C Colorant (which ever one you used) and Fragrance. To the left are two bottles. The one with the white cap shows the product shaken up to show what it looks like "mixed" the second shows it in the layers as it's settled. This is an easy product that is fun to make!
Happy Crafting!
Flicker!
Lush Lava when shaken prior to use will allow for the products to temporarily 'mix'. Since oil and water don't actually mix this part is essential to get the benefit of both products during use. It is awesome feeling on the skin and when used lightly in the hair has the benefit of a light conditioner AND a shine spray! I love it!
For this project you will need only a few items:
Hair & Body Protein Mist
Cyclomethicone
FD&C Body Dyes
Fragrance
PET Bottle for Packaging
Fine Mist Sprayer
*A Pyrex Measure Cup and a digital scale are also needed.
First, make your Protein Mist.
Instructions for use:
Add 1/4 to no more than 1/2oz. of lotion safe fragrance oil to 1 gallon of base. Add liquid Bath & Body dye in drops until desired color is achieved. Stir thoroughly. Pour into bottles with a funnel. For smaller amounts, there is a measuring chart found here: http://cart.candlesupply.com/Bases-c-332.html This chart is based on 1 oz per gallon so be sure to adjust accordingly!
Caution: Adding more than the recommended amount of fragrance oil may cause separation. Shake well before using! This product has a milky appearance so clouding is not an issue.
Some fragrances will cause separation of this base, please test your fragrances if this may be a problem. Shaking will incorporate it and it is still usable.
Next make your Cyclomethicone. Because this may go on both the hair and skin, I used only 10% fragrance. You can use a bit more or a bit less just be certain to check the IFRA percentages for each scent you plan to make because many are not skin safe to 10%! Incorporate the fragrance into the Cyclomethicone by gently shaking.
*Some scents do NOT blend into cyclomethicone as easily as others. For this project I would recommend only using those that do without any separation. Using the method where you blend with vegetable oil then add to the cyclo may cause the hair or skin to become excessively oily.
Once you have both products made, it's time to mix! Just pour your Protein Mist into the bottom of the bottle, filling it half way. Once this is done, GENTLY pour (I tilt the bottle) the Cyclomethicone on top of this. Once it settles, there will be two clear layers of product in the bottle. Be sure to note on the instructions to SHAKE WELL before each use to get the full benefits of each product. Your ingredients list will look like this:
Clear Layer: Cyclomethicone J and Fragrance Oil
Colored Layer: Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Cetrimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E), Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dimethicone, Sea Salt, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, FD&C Colorant (which ever one you used) and Fragrance. To the left are two bottles. The one with the white cap shows the product shaken up to show what it looks like "mixed" the second shows it in the layers as it's settled. This is an easy product that is fun to make!
Happy Crafting!
Flicker!
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
New Wood Rose Packaging Coming soon!
We have some new packaging coming to Bitter Creek that should be on the cart soon! There are three new bags for packaging the AromaMagic™ Wood Roses! I am pretty excited about this! There are a large and a small with the standard floral film print in clear and one that is stamped and reads wooden roses. They are awesome! If you have never worked with Wood Roses, here is your chance. Sell by the single or the bouquet or even use singles as promotional items to "give away" with your card and perhaps a discount?
Our delicate, hand crafted AromaMagic™ Wood Roses look very realistic, and last forever! Never worry about your beautiful roses wilting again. These make great keepsakes and gifts that will last much longer than real cut flowers. Available in a great selection of over 20 gorgeous colors to match any décor! Here is what you will need to create fantastic Wood Roses!
Wood Roses
Reed Diffuser Base
Fragrance (I used Spring Rain for these)
Wood Roses Sleeves (COMING SOON!)
A Spray Bottle
A Bowl etc. to catch any over-spray. I use a Pyrex baking dish.
Lightly mist the wood flowers with any of our fragrance oils mixed with our AromaMagic™ Reed Diffuser Base in a spray bottle to scent. Be careful not to overly saturate the petals as they can fall apart if too much fragrance oil is used. Spray evenly with a fine mist so as not to leave visible oil spots. Be aware that some fragrance oils may cause discoloration, so we recommend testing each fragrance on a single flower before making a large batch. Do not dip or submerse the flower in fragrance oil!
Sell refresher mist in a 1 or 2 oz spray bottle or in a glass dropper bottle for customers to freshen their flowers! Great for fairs, festivals, craft shows, flea markets, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, Valentine’s Day, mother’s day, get well soon! Great for table centerpieces (do in wedding colors, school colors for graduation parties, sports team colors, etc). Great items for fundraisers! Use wire cutters to cut stems to varying lengths and add silk leaves to create your own floral arrangement. Wrap a dozen long stemmed AromaMagic™ wood roses with some dried baby’s breath in a Floral Sleeve tied with a sheer ribbon for a romantic bouquet. Mix several colors or just one single color to create a stunning bouquet. Use as a classy drawer freshener in your lingerie drawer!
Single roses sell great in bars… why not sell scented wood roses that will leave a longer lasting impression (wrap a blank white label around the stem for those who want to write a note or give their number)! Great gift for mommy-to-be at her baby shower… pink roses scented in baby powder! Real Estate agents, these make the perfect gifts for your clients to welcome them to their new home! Bosses, perfect gift for secretary’s day! Interior designers can now make custom floral arrangements in designer colors to match any décor! Great in bathrooms, bedrooms, offices, hospital rooms (especially for people who may be allergic to real flowers!).
We’ve seen crafters sell scented wood roses for $1 to $2 a piece, or an average of $18.00 per dozen. Great profit item!
Caution: Direct sunlight may cause colors to fade over time. Colors shown may look different on your computer screen than in real life.
Petals are hand crafted of birch wood and are finished with green silk leaves and a 13” long bendable green stem. Available in bunches of 8 closed bud roses.
Happy Crafting!
Flicker
Our delicate, hand crafted AromaMagic™ Wood Roses look very realistic, and last forever! Never worry about your beautiful roses wilting again. These make great keepsakes and gifts that will last much longer than real cut flowers. Available in a great selection of over 20 gorgeous colors to match any décor! Here is what you will need to create fantastic Wood Roses!
Wood Roses
Reed Diffuser Base
Fragrance (I used Spring Rain for these)
Wood Roses Sleeves (COMING SOON!)
A Spray Bottle
A Bowl etc. to catch any over-spray. I use a Pyrex baking dish.
Lightly mist the wood flowers with any of our fragrance oils mixed with our AromaMagic™ Reed Diffuser Base in a spray bottle to scent. Be careful not to overly saturate the petals as they can fall apart if too much fragrance oil is used. Spray evenly with a fine mist so as not to leave visible oil spots. Be aware that some fragrance oils may cause discoloration, so we recommend testing each fragrance on a single flower before making a large batch. Do not dip or submerse the flower in fragrance oil!
Sell refresher mist in a 1 or 2 oz spray bottle or in a glass dropper bottle for customers to freshen their flowers! Great for fairs, festivals, craft shows, flea markets, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, Valentine’s Day, mother’s day, get well soon! Great for table centerpieces (do in wedding colors, school colors for graduation parties, sports team colors, etc). Great items for fundraisers! Use wire cutters to cut stems to varying lengths and add silk leaves to create your own floral arrangement. Wrap a dozen long stemmed AromaMagic™ wood roses with some dried baby’s breath in a Floral Sleeve tied with a sheer ribbon for a romantic bouquet. Mix several colors or just one single color to create a stunning bouquet. Use as a classy drawer freshener in your lingerie drawer!
Single roses sell great in bars… why not sell scented wood roses that will leave a longer lasting impression (wrap a blank white label around the stem for those who want to write a note or give their number)! Great gift for mommy-to-be at her baby shower… pink roses scented in baby powder! Real Estate agents, these make the perfect gifts for your clients to welcome them to their new home! Bosses, perfect gift for secretary’s day! Interior designers can now make custom floral arrangements in designer colors to match any décor! Great in bathrooms, bedrooms, offices, hospital rooms (especially for people who may be allergic to real flowers!).
We’ve seen crafters sell scented wood roses for $1 to $2 a piece, or an average of $18.00 per dozen. Great profit item!
Caution: Direct sunlight may cause colors to fade over time. Colors shown may look different on your computer screen than in real life.
Petals are hand crafted of birch wood and are finished with green silk leaves and a 13” long bendable green stem. Available in bunches of 8 closed bud roses.
Happy Crafting!
Flicker
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