Monday, October 31, 2016

Layered Paraffin Christmas Pillars

Layered Paraffin Christmas Pillars!

Pillar Candles are a great item to have on-hand for the holiday season. Everyone is out looking for that perfect gift for that special someone. What better gift to give, than a memorable piece of home decor that will add a cherished holiday ambience to any household!


This month I wanted to make a set of slanted layered pillars for more of a rustic look. Let's get started!


Materials you will need:

*Pillar Wax (I used the IGI 1343 straight paraffin)


First thing's first... start by melting your wax. 


As you are waiting for the wax to reach its desired temperature, (For the IGI 1343, this would be 190-200*), gather your candle molds, fragrance, dye, and candle wick.






Start prepping your candle molds by inserting the wick, and sealing off the mold's wick hole around the wick. There are a variety of tools that will help prevent wax spillage from the bottom of the mold as the hot wax is poured in. A couple ways include Mold Sealer Putty, as well as Mold Plugs. 






Quick Tip: Whenever I make pillar molds, I always like to keep each mold on a paper plate, just in case of an accidental spill from the bottom of the mold, it makes for a much easier clean-up. 


Once your wax has reached its desired temperature, measure out your wax, then add your fragrance and candle dye. 
*Since the first layer that you will pour, will be the top of the finished pillar candle, I kept this layer white. I only added fragrance to this layer, and I did not use any candle dye.



Melted wax & fragrance mixture



While pouring the first layer, keep the candle mold upright straight, then after all wax for the first layer has been poured, then use a container (I used a cereal bowl) to prop up the mold as you tilt the entire mold to one side.




First layer of wax on a flat surface



First layer of wax after propped up slanted using a bowl



Candle Mold propped up slanted using a bowl




If you want to achieve nice even layers without any color blending from one layer to the next, you will want to wait until the first layer is hard enough so it is completely cooled and solidified. 



 Solidifying first layer of wax

Solidifying first layer of wax



Since I was going for a more rustic look, I poured the second layer once there was a fairly thick surface of solidified wax on the first layer, but while the center was still warm, so the layers would blend a bit. Be sure to pour the next layer 10* hotter than the first layer, to ensure that the layers stick together. If the next layer is poured too cool, the layers will likely break apart.



Second layer of hot Red Wax


Second layer of Cooled Solidified Red Wax



Repeat this process for every layer you plan on making. The final affects will drastically change, based on the temperature at which you pour all of your layers at. After pouring a few candles with the IGI 1343, you will be able to get a good sense of what temperatures will effect the the candle a certain way. For a smoother candle, you will want to pour at a warmer temperature into a heated mold around 185-195*. For a non-smooth primitive looking candle, you will want to pour a bit cooler into a non-heated mold around 165*. 


Pouring 3rd layer of hot Green Wax


3rd layer of hot Green Wax


Now for the fun part! 
After pouring your very last layer, wait until the wax has completely cooled and solidified. Snip the wick off at the base. 



Completely cooled and solidified pillar w/ clipped wick at the base



Flip the candle mold and watch the candle glide right out of the mold. Careful so you don't drop it!!! 



Finished layered pillar candle


Note: With some paraffin waxes, using a mold release agent is recommended, however I have never found difficulty with removing a fully cooled pillar while using the IGI 1343. Just one more of the benefits of using this great paraffin wax!


The possibilities are endless with layering pillar candles! From Candy Cane stripes, to White "Snow Top" Palm Wax Pillars, have fun while bringing out your creative side! 
After all, 'Tis the season!






I hope this project has given you a new idea to try out for the holiday season! 
If there is ever a fun candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made,
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com. :)
Happy Candle & Soap Making!
-Elya



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Friday, September 30, 2016

Autumn Apothecary Jars!

Autumn Apothecary Jars!

Apothecary Jar Candles are a great item to have on-hand for any time of year, with their endless potential. Customize them for the season, or add a personal touch to give as a memorable gift!

 
So here we go!

Materials you will need:

*Container wax (I used the  EZ ParaSoy)
*Fragrance (I used Autumn Leaves BNL for the green, and Candy Corn for the orange)
*Candle Dye (I used the Hunter/Moss and the Pumpkin/Spice Liquid Candle Dyes)
* Apothecary Jar ( used the 12oz)
*Filling for the Bubble Lid (I used leaves and dried corn) 


First, start by melting your wax to 180*-195*. 




While waiting for the wax to reach its desired temperature, make sure you have an open work space with everything you need within arms' reach. We have a selection of Apothecary Jars to choose from, however for this blog, I chose to use the 12oz size. 


 12oz Apothecary Jar w/ Bubble Lid


When choosing the filling for the Bubble Lid, branch out and be creative! Whether it's candies or tinsel for the holidays, these are going to be so pretty! Being fall time here in the north, I gathered a few colorful leaves from outside as well as some dried corn. It's no wonder why this is my favorite time of year! Talk about beautiful!


Leaves for the Bubble Lid filling


Go ahead and fill the Bubble Lid with the filling that you have collected. The Bubble Lids have a soft plastic cover, so the filling won't drop out. It's sometimes handy to use a butter knife to remove the plastic cover, to fill the Bubble Lid, but not necessary. This is my favorite step of this project :) 


 Bubble Lid with open cover


Filling the Bubble Lid
Filled Bubble Lid


Filled Bubble Lids


 It's always handy to attach the wicks to your jars ahead of time before the wax is ready as well!


Wick secured with a Wick Stickum


By now, your wax should be ready. If the wax has reached the temperature of 180*-195*,  go ahead and add your choice of candle dye and fragrance. Be sure to blend well! This wax should be poured between 165*-180* for optimal results. 

 
Pouring EzParaSoy wax


Instead of adhering to the jars, this wax will actually pull completely away, leaving a smooth finish around the entire candle. However this wax will most likely need a slight top-off. 


Smooth candle surface without second pour


Once your candle has completely cooled, trim the wick, and replace the Bubble Lid as the final step!









These Apothecary Jar Candles are simple to make, and look fabulous on a shelf or corner table! 
The possibilities are endless!


The finished product!


I hope this has given a few of you some new ideas to try out for the upcoming holiday season! 
If there is ever a fun candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made,
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com. :)

Happy Candle & Soap Making!
-Elya



 
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Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Mini Chunk Votives!


Mini Chunk Votives!

I received quite a few requests, to make a blog on these little cuties. As soon as extra time came up over the weekend, I decided to whip up a small batch :)

These Mini Chunk Votives have been one of my long-time favorite items ever since I first started making candles. The inspiration for these, came from the larger Chunk Pillar candles that I absolutely love making.


Let's get started!


Materials you will need:

*Fragrance Oil Droppers (Optional, but oh so handy!)
*Glass measuring cup (I used a Pyrex 2c. measuring cup)




First, start by melting your wax to 190-200*.

Melting IGI 1343 wax


While I'm waiting for the wax to reach its desired temperature, I start prepping my votive molds right away. I don't use any sort of wick adhesive so the wick to keep the wick from moving, since it stays put by itself with a bit of help from the wax chunks (that will be explained shortly).



15hr. Metal Votive Mold w/ wick


Once your wax reaches its desired temperature, I start by making the wax mixture for the mini wax chunks. Measure out 8oz of wax in your glass measuring cup.  Once you have measured 8oz of wax, add your candle dye (I used 6 drops of dye for 8oz. of wax to get that nice "cranberry" color). Be sure to blend well! There's nothing worse than wanting an even colored candle, then having it turn out with large dark spots from the dye not mixing in (see below). I usually take an extra minute to make very well sure, that the dye has mixed in 100%. :)



Melted wax with Dye that is NOT fully mixed yet


After you have fully blended the candle dye into the wax, go ahead and add your fragrance. I have always added fragrance at 6%, and it has always worked wonderfully for me. If you are using Cranberry fragrance, I recommend using that amount.

Once your wax, dye and fragrance mixture is ready, carefully pour the wax into each cavity of the silicone chunk tray mold.




*Tip: Each cavity of the chunk tray mold, is fairly small. It is extremely difficult to pour the hot wax directly into the mold, from the glass measuring cup, without making a HUGE mess. This is where the plastic fragrance droppers are extremely handy (see below). Use a fragrance dropper to fill the mold cavities with the hot wax, making clean-up a breeze! Trust me, you will be extremely grateful that you have these!






After filling the entire chunk tray mold, it usually takes about 10-15 minutes for all of the cubes to completely harden within the mold. Once the cubes have completely hardened, go ahead and pop them out of the mold. You'll be left with a pile of great smelling mini wax cubes.

*Tip: These small cubes also make incredible gifts for a wax melt lover :)



Mini Wax cubes

After you've got your wax cubes done, and your metal votive molds all ready to go, start filling the votive molds. As you drop the cubes in, hold onto the top of the wick with one hand, then after a few cubes are in, they act as a wick holder, keeping it nicely in place. I like to fill the molds just a bit under the surface. This gives me room later on, to top it off with a second pour, for a smooth finish.



A Metal Votive Mold filled with Mini Wax cubes


Now it's time for the over-pour. Keep the wax the same temperature (190-200*), and repeat the process of mixing your wax and fragrance, but this time, Do NOT add dye. This over-pour will need to be plain wax & fragrance, so the cubes show through, making up the design. If you pour the wax on the cooler side, the over-pour will cool very quickly around the cubes, making it seem like the cubes were dropped in. Or for another look, if the over-pour is a bit warmer, the melted wax will actually melt just a tiny bit of the cubes, making some of the color from the cubes, bleed into the over pour. Either way, you are going to end up with a gorgeous little candle!




Fresh over-pour over Mini Wax cubes




Now, some may like to leave their Votives with "chunky tops", with the wax cubes sticking out a bit. I do like this look, however I started topping my Votives off for a smooth look, so they look more uniform to one another.




Votives that have been topped off





Being a fairly small item, there are many fun and easy ways to package these for individual sale, or in gift sets. I packaged this votive in a 4x6" clear cello bag, while securing the top with a Silver Metalic Twist Tie. I finished the look off with the the last final necessity... a small Votive Warning Label.






Talk about cute! These Votives cool extremely quickly, which makes them a pretty fast project. I've never seen one of these on a store shelf, but I can imagine they would do well with how appealing they are. :)





I hope this blog has come in handy to some who were wanting to see how these were made. If there is ever a fun candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made,
Please send your requests to info@candlesupply.com. :)

Happy Candle & Soap Making!
-Elya









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Friday, July 29, 2016

Shimmer Palm Creations

Shimmer Palm Creations

This month, it's all about standing out.
And that's just what our Brand New Palm Waxes do!

As soon as they came in, I was anxious  to try out both of them right away, so I started by using the Shimmer Palm Wax in containers. I always love waiting to see the different unique  patterns that are created with each of our palm waxes. 

I often times have customers come into the show room and are immediately drawn to the beautiful palm candles on the display shelf. A very common question that comes up, is "What additives do you need to add, to make that beautiful design?!" The answer is amazingly simple. Not a single one! All of our palm waxes already contain the optimal blend of additives for a superior finished product. You may want to however add UV Color Stabilizer to prevent fading and chemical color change. 

All of our palm waxes create a unique crystal structure within the candle's interior and exterior during the cooling process that creates patterns that shimmer through the finished product. Our palm waxes come from RSPO sources and are made from 100% natural palm based raw materials and releases no polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon. 

All of our palm waxes can be used to make pillar candles, votive candles, wax melts and taper candles. There are very versatile waxes with an exceptionally unique look! 

So let's begin!




Materials you will need:




First, go ahead and start melting your wax. One of the big advantages about all of our palm waxes, is that they all come in granular form. This makes weighing and storage an absolute breeze!

Shimmer Palm Wax



While the wax is melting, I like to use this time to decide on dye colors and  prepare my containers by securing the wicks in place with Wick Stickums. 
I don't know where I'd be without those handy little things lol.

Prepared containers

Liquid Candle Dyes



Once the wax has completely melted and reached a temperature of 205-210*, you can then weigh out your wax using a scale. I find that 5oz of wax by weight, before adding scent or colorant, is the perfect amount for making one single 8oz jelly jar candle. 

Once your melted wax is weighed, add your choice of dye. Palm waxes hold color beautifully!
Liquid, chip and powdered dyes seem to work best in palm waxes. Other dyes may interrupt the crystalline structure and appearance of the wax. Be sure to mix well! 

After you have added the dye, then add your choice of fragrance. 
Again, be sure to mix well!

Melted palm wax with Coffee/Caramel Liquid Candle Dye




Now it't time to pour your melted wax into the prepared containers! 
Be careful, this is extremely hot!
As soon as your wax mixture has reached the temperature of 200-205*, pour into your containers. 
It has been found that heating your containers a bit first, has helped with the crystal formation. However, when I made all of the candles for this blog, I did not heat the jars beforehand. The containers were all at room temperature (about 68*), and every one of them turned out perfectly :). 


Now this is my favorite part of the process! After pouring, it will take just a few moments before the transformation starts to take place, and the crystal formations start to appear. 

The beginning stages of the crystal formation



There aren't words to truly describe how neat this process really is. 
To really try to show you just how intricate and unique the crystal formation is as it begins, 
I turned all lights off and set a flashlight behind the candles. Talk about neat!


 The beginning stages of the crystal formation (shown with a flashlight)





Palm waxes usually require a re-pour, due to sink holes. If you are experiencing sink holes with your candles, wait until the surface of the candle has crusted over, poke multiple relief holes through the surface of the candle around the wick and about 3/4 of the way down the candle. 
The candle center will still be fluid at this point. Top the candle off with wax that is 10* hotter than the first pour. Repeat this process as needed. 

Palm waxes should be cooled as slowly as possible to inhibit the crystal structure to form fully. 

*Note: None of the candles that I made for this blog, required any sort of a re-pour. I let them cool at room temperature (around 68*), and let them set overnight on the counter.

A smooth top of a palm wax candle without sink holes



Once your candles have fully cooled, go ahead and trim the wicks down and there you have it!
A gorgeous Palm Wax Candle!

The finished product!


Happy Candle & Soap Making! :)
-Elya 













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