Thursday, June 12, 2014

Christmas Cookie Wax Melts!

I love cookies! I mean I really LOVE cookies! I also LOVE wax melts! And I love Christmas too! With so many of the scents of Christmas on sale this month, I figured this was the PERFECT time to give this idea a whirl! This project incorporates three of my favorite things in one! Christmas Cookie Wax Melts!!!!!

The only warning I will make is that these look REAL! My 10 year old son and 16 year old daughter each tried to take one off the plate and eat it! Not bad when the candle maker can fool her own kids! :) 

These are pretty simple to make and if you already make votives or wax melts you may even have what is needed on hand already! 

Supplies List:

Wax: IGI 4794 Votive Blend
Fragrance: I used Homespun Sugar
Dye: I used just a small amount of Brown block dye to get a "baked cookie" color.

Sprinkles or sugar for decorating cookies
Wax Paper

Start by melting your wax per the instructions on the site. When your wax is fully melted, add 1/2 weight oz of scent to 8 weight oz of wax. Allow to cool a bit then pour into a smaller plastic or stainless bowl and allow to further cool until the wax begins to form a skin.


When the wax begins to skin over, start whipping it with your fork to incorporate air. Think Whipping Cream. Just keep doing this so that it does not become one solid mass. Pliability and spreadabilty is key! When it's ready it should look like whipped cream only a bit denser. Like this: 


Next scoop out spoons of the wax and place them on the wax paper The smoother the wax the flatter the cookie, the chunkier the wax the chunkier the cookie. The ones with the round candies on them are done with the wax being a bit looser, the chunkier ones are done when the wax is a bit cooler. Either way they look real and delicious, some just may find one easier to make than the other. 
 
And there you have it, Christmas Cookies wax melts! These are awesome packaged in clear glass cookie jars at craft shows and for retail sale in the cute window front bags we sell at the north or even in the clear zip top pouches from the south! Try this using our Lemon Pound Cake, Sissies Sugar Cookie etc! Sell by the piece, pound etc! The only thing left is to melt and enjoy!

Happy Scented Goodies Making!
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Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Candy Corn, Ghosts and Jack-o-Lanterns!

For those that wholesale, the groove towards fall and winter is in full swing! Recently I decided that many of the items I've sold for years are just stale and that my business simply needs a boost. How to boost it was the question!? I looked at other candle makers and larger companies and decided it was time to find a niche market, something that wasn't everywhere and out of the blue this adorable idea hit me! Doing seasonal candles that were specific to certain holidays! I will actually be selling mine in a set of three versus individually. I think it gives more appeal. Putting them in a cute crate will be my next step but I will not shrink wrap the set because people LOVE to smell their candles!

This month I will show you what you need to make the adorable Halloween set I made.

Supplies List:

  1. 8 oz. or 16 oz. Smooth Side Mason Jars
  2. Lids (I prefer the Rusty lids or the Black!) 
  3. Fragrance: Perfect Pumpkin WYW, Candy Corn and Honey Pear Cider  
  4. Wax: IGI 4636 works GREAT for making layered candles so I'd recommend that for this 
  5. Dye: Orange Dye Chips, Saturn Yellow Dye Chips and White Dye Chips 
  6. Wicks: If you are making the 8 oz, the 51-32-18z and the 16 oz. the 60-44-18z 
  7. You will also need black and yellow glossy acrylic paints and a fine tip paintbrush.

First assemble your jars. Be sure to wash and dry them well. Pre-heat your oven to the lowest
setting and place the jars in the oven on a cookie sheet. Do this while your wax is melting. Heat for at least 20 minutes. Longer is fine too. :)

  1. For the 16 oz. Jars, each will hold 12.8 weight oz of wax and with the Candy Corn and Honey Pear Cider. 8 weight oz of scent. The candle made from Perfect Pumpkin will use .5 weight oz of scent. 
  2. For the 8 oz. Jars, each will hold 6.4 weigh oz of wax and .4 weight oz of scent. The candle made from Perfect Pumpkin will use .25 weight oz of scent. This will be easiest to do if you have a total of 5 Pouring Pots.
  3. For the 16 oz. jars use 1 white chip total for the Honey Pear Cider for the 8 oz use 1/2 white chip. For the Perfect Pumpkin use 2 Chips per 16 oz jar and 1 per 8 oz. For the Candy Corn split the wax three ways. 2 pots each weighing 4 oz and the remainder in the third. This wax is already scented! For the Yellow (a 4 oz pot) add 1 Saturn Yellow Chip, for the orange which is the largest of the three pots, add one Orange Chip and the top will be the white and that will use 1/2 a White Chip.

Heat wax to 185-190*. Once wax reaches desired temp, add your dye, blend well then add fragrance and again blend well. This wax should be poured between 180-185* into heated containers and cooled as slow as possible for optimal adhesion to glass and a smoother finished candle top. The increased pour temp will allow for more even cooling and less sink holes. 

For the Candy Corn Candle, pour each layer as you can. I allow the candles to cool until they are cool to the touch before pouring the next layer. For the second and third colors I recommend pouring at 165-170* into room temp glass. 

The end result is three candles that all have Halloween Appeal! Paint cute Jack-o-Lantern faces on the Perfect Pumpkin Candle and a cute face on the Honey Pear Cider Ghost and you have the perfect Halloween Trio!

For Christmas, consider a green candle scented in Oh Christmas Tree, with bulbs painted on. A White and Red Striped Candle scented in Candy Cane. A Red Candle with a black band in the center with a buckle painted on for Ole St. Nick scented in Old Fashioned Christmas! You could do the same for so many holidays! Just use your imagination! 

Hope this idea will help you make your year one of the most successful yet!
Happy Candlemaking!
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Friday, May 9, 2014

Pricing Your Products.

Before I even type a word on how to price, I want to stress that if you plan to sell to stores or just at shows, this is very important to understand. Everyone is in business with one common goal and that is to make money. Be sure to really know how to price what you sell before you venture off into the big world of selling both wholesale and retail. Pricing isn't easy but there is absolutely a formula that will help you to both price your products fairly so that you are both making enough and at the same time not pricing yourself out of the market you plan to sell in.



1. Production Costs + 2. Labor + 3. Profit Margin = 4. Wholesale Price.

1. What is a production cost?
The cost of raw materials, transportation fees, custom taxes/surcharges and a percentage of your overall expenses for doing business (rent, equipment, licenses, and insurance). Most small businesses like ours do not yet have rent to consider but you may have other expenses that should be included in this list as well.

2. What is a labor cost?
Calculate the overall production costs and then divide by your total number of products made to determine the per-product production cost. Sometimes in a very small business where it's a one man show, typical of our type of industry, this is something over looked or plain and simply omitted.

Now that you have this figured out, you will want to add the production cost and the labor cost together to come up with the actual cost to make your product.
3. Next is to come up with the ideal profit margin.This isn't something that is an exact science I am afraid. A lot of consideration needs to be given at this point. For example I like to double my overall cost to make the product. So I take the production cost and the labor cost, add them together. Let's just say I am making a car freshener and my production cost and labor cost come out to $.90 per piece (this is not a real number, I just tossed in a figure to show you what I mean.). Ideally I'd like to wholesale that at a 100% profit but lets just say that if I wholesaled them at $1.80 and the rest of my competitors are selling them for $1.50, I would likely get less business and in fact they are a fairly simple product to make so instead of making $.90 profit, I would choose instead to make $.60 profit and hope that over the long haul with increased buying power of the supplies to make them I could cut the production costs down.

4. The biggest thing to look at is how many will I be making, how fast can I make them, are they simple or hard to make and determine that profit margin  accordingly. Ideally, the cost of making the product and the profit should be equal in determining wholesale prices. So for most items if it costs $1.00 to make in total the wholesale price would be $2.00.

Wholesale Price x 2 = Standard Retail Mark-up.

This leads me to retail mark up. I see SO MANY candle & soap makers out there selling themselves short and in doing so actually driving themselves out of business. It breaks my heart to see this! I can not tell you how many times I have been told that they can't get a higher price for their product and retail at a wholesale price. What I will tell you is that I have sold my products in nearly all 50 states, every province in Canada and in Europe and I know my product is priced wholesale competitive to Yankee, etc. so when someone tells me that you can't get that price there, I ask if Yankee is sold near them. The answer is always: Yes. Trust me, it's about image, if you create a craft looking product expect craft prices. Make your product shine and you too can charge what the big boys do! Don't undersell yourself or your product.

So what you have to look at is what type of a profit margin are the places selling your product looking to make? Typically a gift shop will at least want to double their investment. So if they are buying an item for $2 they will want to make at least $2 so they will likely sell it for about $4. 
What this tells me is the best way to look at pricing is as follows:
If it costs you $1 to make an item, the typical wholesale will be $2
If a shop buys an item for $2 wholesale expect them to retail that item for $4
So the formula on most items will be:
Cost x 2 for Wholesale
Cost x 4 for Retail.

As I stated before these formulas are just suggestions and there can be reasons to deviate from this as well. But using it as a guideline will help you to know how to best price your products in the future! It's always a good idea before you make a product to know what others are selling it for both retail and wholesale so you can make the best decisions possible when choosing the supplies and pricing.

Happy Candle and Soap Making!
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Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Crock Pot Hot Process Soap!

Hot Process Soap is the same basic soap as Cold Process...without the hefty wait time! Although it does not look as smooth it is still beautiful and smells great too! If space is an issue or time, Hot Process or HP soap may be your best friend! I am really just a novice myself with HP although I am a seasoned CP soaper. I am finding this method is quite interesting and fulfilling to make. I am testing a variety of recipes in the coming months to see what works best for me and will likely begin to sell some of these soaps as well. I am thinking about trying a shampoo bar next! I love finding new methods of making the things I love!


 



To begin here is what you will need to make Hot Process Soap in your Crock Pot!

Crock Pot with high and low settings (one with a removable crock is best), Digital Scale, Gloves, Eye Protection, Respirator Mask, Stick Blender, Spatula, Stainless Spoon, Wire Whisk or Potato Masher
Pyrex or HDPE plastic Measure Cups (1 for lye water and one for weighing the oils)

Soap Oils: I did a small batch but you can adjust this to your liking later too
6 oz Crisco or Ez Soy Wax
6 oz Coconut Oil
6 oz Palm Oil
6 oz Olive Oil
3.35 oz Sodium Hydroxide
9 oz. water
1.5 oz fragrance. I used our Drakkar Type
Gel Tones Colorant. I used Neon Green which comes out a very nice minty color.
Milky Way Molds 

Start by weighing out the Sodium Hydroxide into a Glass Pyrex (plastic is static prone, glass is not) and by weighing into a Pyrex measure Cup 9 ounces of ICE COLD water. Wearing your eye protection and respirator mask and gloves, place the cup of water in a sink and SLOWLY add the lye to the water stirring constantly using a stainless steel or plastic spoon. THIS WILL GET VERY HOT!!! Lye is VERY caustic! If any should splash on you, IMMEDIATELY rinse well with ice cold water! Never mix lye outside and then move indoors. Use the vent on your range to ventilate the room or open a door or a window. Your respirator will allow you to breathe safely during this process. Spilling lye is far more dangerous.

Once this is done, weigh your oils and place in the crock pot on high until they are melted. Always use your scale to weigh your oils. They do not need to be melted before placing in the crock pot for HP soap. 



 
After the oils have all melted, add your lye solution and stir until it is blended using the spoon to avoid splashing any of the lye water. This is important, remember lye can be dangerous. Keep your hands gloved and your eye protection on at all times when handling the lye and raw soap.








Now Stick blend your soap until it reaches trace. Trace looks like this. Sort of like a thick cooked pudding. This will take a few minutes depending on your particular recipe. Blend in 30 second bursts followed by stirring gently using the stick blender. Burst, stir etc. Now its time to cover the soap up and let it cook!







 
Keep stirring your soap. It will bubble, froth, separate like curds and finally begin to look like vaseline, that is soap kiddo's!  Use a spoon, potato masher or stainless whisk for this stage. Stir WELL, keep on stirring, people flop at this stage because they aren't stirring well enough.


 
 Once it looks like vaseline, add your scent, dye and stir well then mold. Wait until the soap cools and remove from the molds. 










Bitter Creek sells Milky Way molds that are GREAT for making HP soap!! Be sure to grease them before placing the soap in them for easier release. Pam Cooking Spray works great!

Monday, April 14, 2014

Fresh Peach After Bath Oil

This month I wanted to do something that just screamed summer. It had to smell like summer, be a product I'd use in the summer and so on! I love the water & I love the sun but both tend to dry my skin out. Here is the perfect solution for summer OR winter dry skin! After Bath Oil Spray! So simple to make and yet so nice for that weary dry skin without feeling oily!

First of all, you will need to have a digital scale to weigh your scent, and the Cyclomethicone and the Rice Bran oil. I like Rice Bran oil because it is very light and absorbs nicely into the skin without feeling too heavy. Because you will be using 50% Cyclomethicone, the finished product will have a silky smooth, almost powdery feel! It's quite amazing!


What you will need:

Fresh Peach Fragrance Oil, BCS
Cyclomethicone
Rice Bran Oil

8 oz Black Spray Cap
8 oz Clear Bullet Bottle


1. On your digital scale weight out 4 oz of Rice Bran oil.
2. To that weigh in .4 oz of Fresh Peach Fragrance.
This will be 5% of the total weight of the product so you will know that as long as by IFRA standards your scent is at least 5% safe for 4.C Body creams, oils, lotions of all types (except baby products) per the charts on our site.
3. Blend these items well to prevent any chance of the fragrance not blending with the Cyclomethicone in the next step.
4. Now weigh in 4 oz of Cyclomethicone
5. Place the cap on the bottle
6. Shake well.


As you can see, this is a very quick, simple project to make but it has an amazingly wonderful effect on dry, weary skin! The added bonus is the great scent along with the great product. An excellent product to sell any time of year, in any climate! This product feels amazing! Use on wet or dry skin, any time!


Happy Bath & Body Creating!
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